This component may factor into lace and other threads, and perhaps I shared 
before, but threads do have "nap" and also their "S" or "Z" twist.  Beginning 
use of a thread from one end or the other can greatly factor in.

An example for those who do not sew is cordoroy or velveteen.  Run you hand one 
way and it is smooth, and run it the other direction and it feels rough.  It is 
the same with many threads and even yarns.

Case in point; when I do hand sewing, I often cut the length of thread I need, 
and thread the needle with the last to come off the spool (esp. with certain 
brands or certain thread compositions ie: in this instance a synthetic thread 
is often less cooperative than a natural fiber).   Even though the thread will 
be folded in half to sew, it can make a huge difference in how the thread 
handles. 

When I smock, I run the floss through my fingers to feel the nap, and thread 
the needle so the nap will be lying down/smooth to go through the fabric with 
the least resistance.

This can apply to threads when winding bobbins for bobbin lace, and often 
become more evident with fibers such as silk, etc.  If you work against the nap 
or twist it can have a tendency to "drag" and weakens the fibers when working.  

I don't know if anyone has ever noticed thread "leads" coming off a  bobbin 
without weight on it may demonstrate a tendency to curl, or if tensioning they 
may "resist," and choosing winding direction to begin may factor in. 

Since both ends of threads are commonly wound it may seem moot, but taking the 
one end and letting it "unfurl" may help, and from my naive bobbin lace 
experience, it can be even more important to passives and whether they want to 
comply or not.  This may be less obvious with cotton for instance, but show up 
in more "temperamental" threads such as linen or silk, 

Even when knitting I find that yarns need to be allowed to unfurl periodically 
and the best way to remedy this to my mind when using threads, would be to cut 
a length and allow it to relax, whether for seconds or whatever times it takes 
to wind one bobbin.  After all in mfg., it is twisted to become the thread, and 
then twisted again on the spool/ball.

May seem moot to some, but I have found it to be a real headache saver when 
doing repetitive things, and a time saver too.  If I smock with thread against 
the nap, it will wear out much more quickly than with the nap.   Also I note 
that it something that is worked more or less in one direction, and with too 
much "torque" on the thread, can result in a biased piece or one that will not 
lie or relax into it's natural harmony, and is an often unnamed factor there 
also.

Just in case it helps.

Susan Reishus


      

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