With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is thread wound on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working stitches in bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a small amount, it accrues), and other "dangling," etc.
Though I am not an expert in bobbin lace, I have worked with textiles, fwiw, for decades. Sewing thread for hand sewing twists just with simple running stitches, and is compliant and stronger, when allowed to "unfurl." (Often thread cut from the spool, and threaded with the last from the spool, handles better, going along with the twist, than threading a needle from the first cut end). Even when knitting lace or a plain sock, one must continually allow the yarn (or object), to unwind. Not done, this put bias on objects so they tend not to lay "on grain" which adds stress, but especially, as untwisting too much will weaken (not often a problem in hand knitting, rather over twisting is) the yarn and will break or wear soon. It isn't as obvious with thread, as it often has tighter twist but more importantly, it is happening on a more "micro" way than say yarn, (in a more obvious "macro" way.) As with a cake recipe, you provide the components, and scientific physics principles for something that will rise, have texture, etc., as desired, but this doesn't factor in the human component, which results in occasional failures. I believe the practical vs. theoretical applications apply here. If the thread was free, and not imposed upon by the bobbin, these characteristics and problems would be more obvious, and sooner, but thus tend to show up once the thread is in application, and sadly so. Perhaps there are spinners on this list that can supply more perspective. From what little spinning I have done, better helps me understand yarn and thread; the observations and conclusions I had come to long ago, but of which, keep evolving. Best,Susan Reishus "...now there was the sugestion of the way you put the spool of thred to wind in on your bobins that is blabla there are very few added on or taken of twists to it easy to calculate it you take the diameter of the spool and multiply by PI 3.14 and you have the outer diameter lets say 1cm * 3.14= 3.14cm per extra twist so if you needed 1 meter of thread on your bobin you have 100cm / 3.14 =31twist per meter extra if you work into fine threads like 70/2 Nec you are around 400 to 600 twists per meter that 31twists will be ignorant to the tbehavior of the thread and again the Z or S and the adding or takeingof will be minimal some will say now: but if you need 10 meters it will be 10 times that amount? not realy only the distance from the threadspool to the bobin counts and then again you will fearly end up on an even dispercion of the added or taken of twists..." Francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com