Another thought to add to the mix. I wind my bobbins to ensure I am
not adding or removing the thread's twist, but I still find it
untwists as I work. Years ago it was suggested to me that I might be
twisting my bobbins as I work my lace unintentionally. I now keep an
eye on my threads and find from time to time I need to give my bobbins
a twist the other way to put the twist back on the thread.
Claire
Kent,UK
Claire Allen
www.bonitocrafts.co.uk
Crafty stuff I want to show off.
On 8 Feb 2010, at 17:32, Susan Reishus wrote:
With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is
thread wound
on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working
stitches in
bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a
small amount,
it accrues), and other "dangling," etc.
Though I am not an expert in bobbin lace, I have worked with
textiles, fwiw,
for decades. Sewing thread for hand sewing twists just with simple
running
stitches, and is compliant and stronger, when allowed to
"unfurl." (Often
thread cut from the spool, and threaded with the last from the
spool, handles
better, going along with the twist, than threading a needle from the
first cut
end).
Even when knitting lace or a plain sock, one must continually allow
the yarn
(or object), to unwind. Not done, this put bias on objects so they
tend not
to lay "on grain" which adds stress, but especially, as untwisting
too much
will weaken (not often a problem in hand knitting, rather over
twisting is)
the yarn and will break or wear soon.
It isn't as obvious with thread, as it often has tighter twist but
more
importantly, it is happening on a more "micro" way than say yarn,
(in a more
obvious "macro" way.)
As with a cake recipe, you provide the components, and scientific
physics
principles for something that will rise, have texture, etc., as
desired, but
this doesn't factor in the human component, which results in
occasional
failures. I believe the practical vs. theoretical applications
apply here.
If the thread was free, and not imposed upon by the bobbin, these
characteristics and problems would be more obvious, and sooner, but
thus tend
to show up once the thread is in application, and sadly so.
Perhaps there are spinners on this list that can supply more
perspective.
From what little spinning I have done, better helps me understand
yarn and
thread; the observations and conclusions I had come to long ago, but
of which,
keep evolving.
Best,Susan Reishus
"...now there was the sugestion of the way you put the spool of
thred to
wind in on your bobins
that is blabla
there are very few added on or taken of twists to it
easy to calculate it
you take the diameter of the spool and multiply by PI 3.14 and you
have
the outer diameter
lets say 1cm * 3.14= 3.14cm per extra twist
so if you needed 1 meter of thread on your bobin you have 100cm / 3.14
=31twist per meter extra
if you work into fine threads like 70/2 Nec you are around 400 to 600
twists per meter
that 31twists will be ignorant to the tbehavior of the thread
and again the Z or S and the adding or takeingof will be minimal
some will say now:
but if you need 10 meters it will be 10 times that amount?
not realy only the distance from the threadspool to the bobin counts
and then again you will fearly end up on an even dispercion of the
added
or taken of twists..." Francis
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