>Dear David, Robin, et al, >In the US at least, you can find dowels of all sorts of thicknesses in places >that sell supplies to make models. I see them in model train stores, and in >the big box craft stores. They range from very narrow, perhaps less than 1/8 >inch, .3 cm all the way on up. If you then found thin nuts, the square kind, >of the right inner and outer dimensions, it could be jammed on the bottom and >secured with glue. Top stop so the thread doesn't come off I haven't figured >out yet, but I bet there are others with ideas. Perhaps even a thin washer, >again with the right inner and outer dimensions, so you jam it on the top, >stick some glue to insure it stays put. Doesn't need to be very thick, >certainly narrower than the nut at the bottom. > >Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA > >>---- David C COLLYER wrote: >>>>A thin wood dowel ought to work just as well as coathanger wire and >>----As soon as I read that I immediately thought of those cheap wooden meat >>skewers. I recall in my early days when I didn't have enough bobbins I used >>them with just a rubber band wound round the head and no spangle at all. It >>was a pain though. However, if I glued a small metal nut on to the end, they >>could work. The only disadvantage I can see with such thin bobbins is that >>they'd be a pain to wind. >> >>I was thinking of the skewers, too, but opted for a more general description. >> But they would be a lot easier to wind than your coathangers. Both are hard >>because they're very narrow, but that's what you want. On the other hand, >>it's really hard to get thread to "stick" to metal for winding smoothly and >>reasonably tightly, while the skewers are usually bamboo (at least in the US) >>and hold the thread well. >>
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