Hello Tim.
Yes I know its not a plunge router, but this one shares a lot of nice
futures that could be used on the Legacy.
When I unlocked the router base locks (there are two), one for fine
adjustment and the base lock, this router slid up and down so very easily it
almost felt like a plunge router.
Ive been playing around with the idea of making my own Z axis again, After
seeing what Bill did, using his plunge router on a base that could be raised
and lowered on his Z axis.
Along those lines a fixed base with quick release and fine adjustment, (for
under $200.00) just might fit the bill.(excuse the play on words here. ) ;-)
It just might work.
As I said its just an idea, and most likely will not ever get done by me,
But it dose look like a nice router.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/2-Peak-HP-Fixed-Base-Router-Kit/EN/index.htm
here is a better link.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Krause" <artmarb...@comcast.net>
To: <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: {Disarmed} Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Are you talking about the 2hp fixed base rigid? Your link brings up all the
routers.
http://www.homedepot.com/RIDGID/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ18g/R-202739521/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis" <curtgeo...@wowway.com>
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: {Disarmed} Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Hello Bill
I have also use the dial indicator on my PC. I like that trick, it
worked well for me in the past.
But I have another question for all of you out there.
I went to Home Depot today, and saw the new Rigid routers there, "Man"
those are some nice looking routers! they all have a fine adjustment
screw on the body as well as a release for rapid or gross movements.
The prices tag's also look pretty good to me as well. Has anyone used
any of these routers, I would like to hear about the good side as well
as the draw backs on these routers.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=routers&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL
There lam. router is also very sharp looking.
Just wanted to know what you guys (and the two lady's that I know of
that are on this group page as well.) think of this router.
have a good night.
C.A.G.
On Sep 20, 6:20 pm, "Bill Bulkeley" <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:
I use a dial indicator for this (or I should say did) it clamped on to the
router and touches the cross slide i could have put on 1 thousands of a inch
if i wished
same for the other directions too it reminds me i have to find another
dial indicator with a g clamp instead of a magnetic base
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: CURTIS GEORGE
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 8:15 PM
Subject: {Disarmed} Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Hello Bill
Ive seen the Trition router, but not first hand, Hopefully someday I will
get a chance to play around with one?
Another way to get rid of that divit,is to have your cut start in a cove
or low spot and have that as your starting point. Or if you can start the
cut in the waiste part of the wood and part that part off latter has worked
well for me in the past.
Fine cutting control or proper placement of the router bit depth is one
problem, but another one that Ive run into is measurement from the router
down to the spindle.
Legacy's CNC units use a feeler gauge (Im not sure that is the right
name?) to touch off of to find 0. where all measurements are then taken
from. Perhaps that idea could be used on the manaul machines as well? let
say true center is 0 ( the point of the tail stock live center and the
center point of the head stock) and then take all measurement for that
point?
I dont know how it could be done more easly, perhaps with two depth stops,
or a digital scale could be used ?
Its something that I need to do some more thinking about. There has to be
a better/faster way,then rounding off your work, measureing and then
subtracting for the total to get the size you are looking for. this way
works but I find it a very real pain when trying to work with exact
measurements like on tennon joints, where the mateing part must be dead nuts
on to fit.
Like I said to Tim, build a better mouse trap... Or perhaps I just need to
find a different bait for my trap? ;-)
I have to get to work now. have a good day.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 05:08:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
I have said this before but for those who did not read on this topic in
the past
I solved the fine adjustment with plunging by using a triton router they
have a fast plunge option like most routers but they also have a fine depth
adjustment by turning a knob
very similar to routers mounted to a router table. so to solve the problem
of a divot left in the work after it is finished
i just plunge and machine leaving bit left for a finishing cut then just
turn the adjuster a half turn and take a last fine cut it comes out perfect
every time
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From:geo...@wowway.com href="mailto:curtgeo...@wowway.com";
target=_blank>curt george
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
You know I've heard that before. ;-)
After all this is one Old topic. ;-p If you think you can make a better
mouse trap, I for one would love to see it!
Did you look at the Saw Trax router system? Its a piece of junk, but the
router lift just may have some possibilities, if you could figure out a way
to have steps or some way of limiting the down ward movement. Having the
router as a fine adjustment really is not all that bad, if you can get close
to the point you are looking for.first.
And I think making a sliding dovetail slide with a brass gib just may be
the easiest way to keep everything small and tight,while maintaining a solid
structure.
Im dead beat tired. MY WORLD IS GOING TO SHUT DOWN NOW.(its way past my
bed time.)
I hope you have a good night.
Tomorrow there will be more questions that will have to be ansered. ;-)
talk to you latter.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From:Tim Krause
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
I would like better depth control to eliminate the divot problem. The PC
7539 lifts up just a tiny bit after you lock it in place. Do you remember
when I shared about disabling the lock and using my hand as a poor mans
plunge bar? It worked slick and I was going to make an improved version with
a bar and a lock so the router would stay down for as long as I needed it
to. Maybe I'll get to it in a few weeks.
The spring loaded lock on the PC 7539 is the reason plunge bars will not
work. It would have to be disabled. Otherwise it would be a two handed
operation and you certainly would not be saving any time or improving
accuracy.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From:curt george
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Hello Lewis and Welcome to this topic.
I just made a comparison to the look of your machine, It looks very much
like the WoodRat system is all that I said.
Others in the past tried the WoodRat plunge bars, and some liked them, I
have a PorterCable 3 1/2 horse plunge router on my Legacy, I was told that
my router is not compatible with the plunge bar set up that WoodRat offers/
or offered at that time. (its been a few years since I last looked.)
My needs for my own Legacy system (I have an old 1000 ex A 2002 model.) is
not to gain better control, but more plunge depth is my goal, So To be fully
honest with you, I'm not all that sure I would use the set up even if I
could get my hands on one.
I thank you for letting me know more about your Router Boss system.
Hopefully someday I will get a first hand experience on how your system
works,but at this time, my main interest is in the spindle making
element/ornamental turnings.
I wish you a good day. And Thank you again.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From:Lewis Stepp
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Cc:'CURTIS GEORGE' ; gmail.com href="mailto:hmatyas0...@gmail.com";
target=_blank>hmatyas0...@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 3:42 PM
Subject: RE: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Hi Curtis:
We are the manufacturer of Router Boss. The plunge assist bar for Router
Boss was designed to be used only with the Router Boss and would require
some adaptation to be used on the Legacy. Router Boss looks similar, but is
an improved design and does not share any parts with WoodRat. The WoodRat
PlungeBars are different and were designed to be used either with or
independent of the WoodRat machine.
We have a supply of WoodRat PlungeBars. If you would like to try one on
your Legacy machine then contact us.
Lewis Stepp
Craftsman Gallery
www.ChipsFly.com
513-233-9019
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 9:13 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
Ive not heard of the Router Boss. but after looking at there web site, it
looks a lot like the Wood Rat system. at least thay work on the same
concept. The plunge bar might help get finer control of the plunging
movement?
Please let me know what you find out.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Harvey Matyas <hmatyas0...@gmail.com>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 07:31:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Add on to control depth of cut on the router
I did some more research and the Router Boss has the plunge bar.
On Sep 18, 2012 3:30 AM, "curt george" <curtgeo...@wowway.com> wrote:
Hello Harvey
I've not seen the saw trax unit before, that I pretty neat! There have
been a number of different idea on this forum in the past. In the early
years the Wood Rat plunge bars were tried, and some people really liked
them, I do not know of anyone who now uses them.But it was a simple way to
get more control with out a big expensive, or retor fit on the legacy.
Mr. Bill Buckley made his own Z axis that fit his old plunge router on his
Z axis.
I own a SS overhead router, (the older version mid 80's model) the
rack-in-pinon movement with sliding dove-tails works well and could be used
on the legacy but making a new carriage to hold this set up may be a bigger
problem to fit onto the Legacy ? (but very good idea in concept.)
I also know that at one time both Tim and Art were talking about making
there own Z axis's (perhaps they will chime in on this latter.) but I do not
know if ether of them went anywhere with the idea ?
Perhaps its a good time to bring back the topic? Since Legacy is not
selling there units (z axis) anymore.
I have to get to work now.
This too is an idea that I think I might like to get into, Making my own
new Z axis.
take care, and thank you for more idea's I like the saw trax floating
router table, I need to take a closer look at that one. ;-)
Have a good day.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From:Harvey
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