Thank you Mac 
I will try your suggestions, Perhaps you are right, that a bigger surface glue 
joint could take up the play/slop in this concept ? You know the funny thing 
here is that My Wife suggested the same things, but for different reasons, (He 
suggestions were for appearance/comedic appeal. not structure.) 

Thank you. 
C.A.G. 
----- Original Message -----

From: "MWF" <mwfos...@earthlink.net> 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 3:15:06 AM 
Subject: Re: Project idea, trail and Error. 

Curtis, 

Perhaps you could try cutting your pieces such that their glue surfaces are at 
a "diagonal", like this: (Sort of like you sometimes see some country-style 
small slabs of wood cut from a tree branch and sanded down to serve as a small 
cheese cutting board of a message painted on them - making them a sort of sign 
- like sold at "Cracker Barrel" restaurants.) 

/ ### / ### / ### / ### / Only with more of a skew for the cuts. This will 
GREATLY increase the surface area of the "glue joints" - which should help a 
lot in reducing the flexing. Cut your pieces at a 45 or 60 degree angle to the 
end grain - then stack and glue them all together. 

Another way to try is to get some high quality (many thin laminations) thin 
plywood. Cut it into strips a bit wider than your glue-up - and as long as the 
cane/stack of pieces. After gluing up all the stack, rip it down the center - 
yielding two "halves" the length of the cane. Now take those two halves and 
glue them to the long strip of plywood and let dry/cure well. This will create 
a "ply spine" down the length of the cane - most likely reducing the "whipping" 
as you turn the shaft. If you still have more flex than you like, repeat the 
rip down the middle of the cane - only this time rip it so the nest ply strip 
is glued at 90 degrees off of the first strip. You should now have 4 "quadrants 
if you look down the shaft/cane from either end. You will now have "almost" two 
backbones down the cane's length. Now finish turning the shaft. You should have 
a lot less flex now. 

Let us know how it "turns" out. (Pun intended!) 

Mac 




-----Original Message----- 
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Jun 25, 2016 3:47 PM 
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: Project idea, trail and Error. 

Hello Everyone. 
Here is a project that I just wanted to try out, I glued it up over the week, 
and let it fully dry, today I started the turning. 

What you are looking at is, end grain used on a walking stick, with an All 
thread rod as the center/spine. of this rod. THe idea is/was to use end grain 
wood for walking sticks, the rod would add strength and make it easy to add on 
the handle and foot, once done. 

I had a lot of scraps in the old storage bin, Teak,Mahogany,and some kind of 
neat looking pallet wood for central america. all cut into squares and drilled 
out to fit onto a 3/8" steel all thread rod. 

The problem quickly was I,D,d . the center flexed a lot when being turned on 
the Legacy, even at the slow speed of the Legacy, the wood flexed. I tried to 
use my center support brace to keep the flexing, but sadly after trying every 
trick that I could think of , the flex won out. This is much thinner than I had 
planed, The end grain looks really nice, but I need to find a better material 
for the spine. 
Dose any one have any ideas??? 

Any and All ideas are (as always.) welcome. 

Have a Great weekend. 
C.A.G. 

[image/jpeg:IMG_6923.JPG] 

[image/jpeg:IMG_6924.JPG] 









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