It may have been a manufacturing defect, just showing up. I assume you
can get the tank out, if you are talking about getting it to a welder -
if so the leak will be easy to find - spray the seams with brake fluid
cleaner. It will turn white, which will then discolor when contacted by
diesel fuel. A pinhole leak can be repaired by 'percussion annealling'
- whack it with a hammer. Repair a more extensive leak with rewelding,
after running a shallow cut, say half the thickness of the material,
down the weld with a circular saw. ('back weld') You may be able to
relace the bottom, but a plate over sounds tricky if there is a lower
sump area. 5083 and 5086 are marine grades, but it would be more
important to match the grade in the tank - it is possible to get a
reaction between 2 types of aluminum, if there is any water present.
(even between the type of aluminum in the plate and in the welding wire!
- fortunately slow, usually) If you are some kind of masochist and
happen to be heading north this time of year, Kingston has the best
aluminum welding facility in the area, Metalcraft marine. Good luck.
Steve
> I assume the fix is to weld a plate over the existing bottom.
>
> Any cautions? Any particular grade of aluminum to use? Does anyone know of
> a good welding shop near Albany or Troy NY?
> I had heard that Aluminum was the preferred material for Diesel, why would I
> have such an early failure? This tank has a lowered sump area with a quick
> and easy water drain.
> Lee Haefele
> S/V Alesto 2
> underway ?? on the Erie Canal
>
>
>
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