Steve,
In calm, stable, conditions we drop the anchor while backing dead slow. When
there is enough chain down we stop the chain with the clutch, quickly engage
the pawl, then release the clutch again so all the strain is on the pawl. When
we expect more than mild pulls on the anchor we use a chain "grab" hook to
attach a nylon pendant to the chain. We have a short pendant, about six feet
long to take ordinary stress off the windlass, that we use most of the time.
It goes from a eye splice around a bow cleat, then through the bow fairllead
with hose chafing gear where it goes through the fairlead. Since it is above
the waterline and is moved often we went with a stainless hook, shackle and
thimble on the anchor chain end. Do NOT mix stainless and galvanized ground
tackle gear underwater!
Bottoms where there is little current are usually "tender" mud bottoms (Fells
Point (Baltimore), Gloucester, Oyster Bay) and we have to "work" the anchor in
slowly. We we set the anchor very gently at first, just backing enough to lift
the chain but not actually pulling at first. Over several pulls I increase the
pulling force but almost never use full power which usually rips out the
anchor. Sand bottoms and hard bottoms kept scrubbed by strong currents
(Hudson River) don't require this technique but hook firmly right away.
After we are satisfied that the anchor is set we hook the stainless fast-hook
to the anchor chain then pull more chain out of the locker until the stainless
hook takes all the strain and there is a loop of anchor chain hanging down
about two feet below the stainless hook. If we don't do this then the boat
could swing and twist enough to pull on the anchor chain and drop the stainless
hook off the chain. I loosen the anchor clutch in this operation and leave the
wildcat on its pawl when done. Some would tighten the clutch to have it ready
for instant use if the anchor needs to be hauled quickly, but I would rather
have the pawl, rather than the hoisting mechanism, take the strain if the
pendant should part because it is easier to repair. I can tighten the clutch
in seconds.
We also have a long pendant, about 15 ft for backup and heavier loads. Since
its length puts the hook below water we used a galvanized hook, shackle and
thimble. This has rusted heavily and makes a mess on deck. We probably
should have gone with a just a length of nylon and a rolling hitch for this one.
Although I have a swivel on my anchor, the Conventional Wisdom is that it is a
weak point and should not be used.
We have a tool consisting of a wood stick about four feet long with prongs we
use to rotate the anchor when it is at the anchor chute so that it goes into
the chute properly. Perhaps when we take the swivel off we won't need it for
that but still it is handy for getting weed off the anchor that will not wash
off.
We have a Johnson brand seawater washdown pump and hose to wash off the chain
and anchor. This a real necessity because the chain usually picks up a lot of
mud. It should be the type of pump with a pressure switch so the pump stops
when you release the hose nozzle and stop the flow.
Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek
30 07.695N 081 38.484W
Okay, the season 'tis about to start and I'll probably be doing a bunch of
anchoring with the new boat.
This time around I'm blessed with a great electric windless and an all chain
rode. This is a new set-up for me and I've got a concern about what to do once
I get a good set on the hook.
Every other boat I've had was a normal rope rode with about 8' of chain which
was simply a question of tying off the line to a bow cleat once the hook was
set. With this new-to-me setup I recognize that 1) I obviously can't tie off
the chain around a cleat, and 2) I've read plenty of horror stories of
windlasses being torn off their mounting if the chain stays on the windless.
So what's the procedure to "tie off" a chain rode?
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Steve
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