Rob is absolutely right. Linseed oil enters into a chemical reaction with any thin vegetable support, such as wood, linen or canvas, and CORRODES it. For Art's purposes this is dealt with by putting a gelatinous barrier (sizing of rabbitskin glue) between the linen/canvas/wood and the layer of linseed oil based gesso. This is not a problem in furniture, but it contains a lot more wood. RT
> Again, in great fear of ranting (another of my bride's accusations) I will > reiterate ad nauseum, NO OIL ON THE SOUNDBOARD. As for others who counsel > oil I'm afraid that if God himself told me to put an oil varnish on a lute > belly, I'd reckon him wrong, gently forect him (he's...you know...after > all) > and hope I didn't get transformed into a newt for my arrogance. Oil and > spruce, or cedar or redwood for that matter, don' mix unless you plan to > live in it or sit on it. > > Thus endeth the rant, for the moment, > Rob Dorsey > http://robdorsey.com > > _____ > > From: Martyn Hodgson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 1:18 AM > To: Rob Dorsey; Lute Net > Subject: Re: [LUTE] Re: Protecting the unfinished top (table) > > > > True Stand Oil is extremely thick and viscous (rather like treacle) and > hardens as a surface film rather than 'soaking into the wood'. It is > applied with a stiff rubber and cannot be 'painted' on. Have you any > experience of it? > > There is evidence that some violins (eg Joseph Michelmas ' Violin > Varnish' > et alia) were given a ground coat which was allowed to harden prior to > varnishing. > > MH > > -- > > To get on or off this list see list information at > http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html > > ___________________________________________________________ $0 Web Hosting with up to 200MB web space, 1000 MB Transfer 10 Personalized POP and Web E-mail Accounts, and much more. Signup at www.doteasy.com
