> Hi All, > > Thanks for weighing in on this topic. I've been using 315, and I think I'm > ready to order some lower strength. It's been good to use especially when > you want the fast tack and I've adapted my technique to suit. I would > never > be able to use Tim's method of glueing the braces all in one go and put a > board over top with weight. An anvil, Tim??? Wow certainly not a > blacksmith's I'm assuming :-))
not for luthiery (yet), but in regular woodworking I often find large assemblies awkward to get clamps on, so rather than raise it all up on blocks or drill holes in valuable plywood jigs out comes a length of scrap oak or poplar and some conveniant block(s) - one end of the board lies on the blocks near an edge of the bench, the other sits on the work to be glued, a hefty bar clamp or two puts pressure on the board next to the blocks and the lever presses on the joint. A steel organ-bellows weight or lead divers weight gets balanced over the joint when more squeeze is needed (that shop has 14 foot ceilings, and would need 13 foot go bars, a little awkward, the boss generally insisted I toss thin scrap that long). not everyone will have a diver for shop owner, or be working organs for a living, but not to despair, other shops I have worked in found use in coffee cans full of heavy scrap (retired piano tuning pins, large odd bolts screws and nuts). More often used as weights than for the metal. Dont forget the clean towel, rust rings are hard to clean off. -- Dana Emery To get on or off this list see list information at http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
