James,
To further confuse the issue, Northern Tonewoods offers Red Spruce soundboards. 

http://www.hvgb.net/~tonewood/acousticguitar.htm

I'm in the middle of building an A lute with one of their soundboards. Tap tone 
is very clear and bright. I don't know how the lute will sound, but it should 
be pretty bright. 

Tim

Sent from my iPhone

On May 17, 2012, at 8:06 AM, James Jackson <weirdgeor...@googlemail.com> wrote:

>   Thanks for your advice,
> 
>   I've decided to go for Englemann. I'm going for grade 7 (Second down
>   from highest on their grade) which the timber supplier describes as
>   "Near perfection - very slow growth, the widest
>   growth ring approximately 2mm within the template area.
>   Very limited acceptance of colour variation, otherwise same as
>   grade 8. Best possible quartering and
>   the minimum possible run-out (short grain). The wood will
>   be stiff with a high pitched tap tone."
>   So hopefully, I should be in for a good soundboard!!
>   James.
>   On 16 May 2012 13:35, Louis Aull <[1]aul...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>       James,
>       The high grade Englemann I have used produces a very warm full
>     sound.
>       It is also by far the best looking wood. It has to be about 20%
>     thicker
>       than Alpine for the same strength. I have not worked with Alpine
>       because the few pieces I have purchased (top grade) were of poor
>       quality by comparison. I like to use Sitka spruce on ren lutes for
>     it's
>       brightness.
>       Now some words of caution: the soft part of the wood is very soft
>     and
>       will pull out with tape. Chip carving on Englemann is extremely
>       difficult due to that softness. It would rather tear than cut.
>     Other
>       rosette carving produces a lot of fuzz and is difficult.  I don't
>       bother with the chip carving and focus on perfecting the rosette.
>     The
>       only tape I have found that will not pull the soft wood out is
>     drafting
>       tape, used and removed with great caution. I usually leave a few
>     tenths
>       of mm around the edges for the final sanding to get the divots in
>     the
>       soft wood flat again. It soaks up dirt, stain, and varnish like a
>       sponge so plan on being more cleanly. That same sponge effect
>     makes it
>       glue better. Anyone who plays one of my Englemann lutes wears a
>     pinky
>       protector or does not touch the top. (Including Hoppy Smith)
>       Is it worth it? To me, no doubt. After my first Englemann top, I
>       wouldn't play the others. I have since replaced all the other
>     tops.
>       Louis Aull
>       --
>     To get on or off this list see list information at
>     [2]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
> 
>   --
> 
> References
> 
>   1. mailto:aul...@comcast.net
>   2. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
> 


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