Hi- from what you all are saying about this, it seems that it is probably beyond my abilities to attempt this. I would certainly learn a lot from the process but I really don't want to ruin this lute. I have already done a lot to it like converting it from twelve to fourteen courses(with octaves). Might I ask if there is someone on this list who would be willing to do the bridge replacement on this lute? I could send it anywhere in the US... Sterling
Sent from my iPhone On Jun 15, 2012, at 10:36 AM, "Ted Woodford" <woodf...@spectranet.ca> wrote: > I'll add my two cents, though Richard provided a wealth of ideas. Planing > down the existing bridge is an excellent tactic! I find aliphatic glues > (white or yellow) actually easier to remove than hide glue. They often come > loose without the addition of water. I put a several layers of aluminum foil > over the top around the bridge for insulation when heating it. I use a > regular household iron for that. > > It's possible to glue on the replacement bridge using hot hide glue and a > rubbed joint. I believe many Spanish guitar makes have used this method. It > takes advantage of the glues' tendency to contract and pull things together > as dries. Basically one slides the two parts back and forth a couple of times > while the glue is hot, creating a suction not unlike what happens if you rub > two microscope slides together. The repairperson then holds it firmly in > place until the glue has gelled. It takes a couple of minutes. > > If the seam is open it might be just as well to patch it with a spline of > spruce while the bridge and strings are off. It's not likely to ever close by > itself in the dry atmosphere of Utah! Richard's observations on humidity > control are excellent. Fixing the open seam would seem prudent if you decide > to separate the top from the bowl to apply clamps to the new bridge. There > should be enough flex in the top that total separation from the bowl isn't > strictly necessary. Freeing it up to the level of the third bar should leave > an opening wide enough to get some lightweight deep throat clamps in there. > > The main thing is to map out the geometry before starting. What angle does > the neck take relative to the face under string tension? Is there an > appreciable bulging behind the bridge that disappears when the strings are > slackened? Pay close attention to the height of the string holes over the > soundboard while it is strung to pitch and use them as a guide for > calculation. > -Ted > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "sterling price" <spiffys84...@yahoo.com> > To: <lute-buil...@cs.dartmouth.edu> > Sent: Friday, June 15, 2012 12:27 AM > Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Archlute Bridge > > >> Hi-I'm not sure if this list is still active so here goes---I have a >> small archlute with a bridge that is made of ebony and I would like to >> replace it with something more appropriate. Also because the string >> spacing and action is all wrong. My question is--what is involved in >> removing a bridge and replacing it without removing the soundboard? I >> just need some advice on how to proceed, or if I should leave it alone. >> >> --Sterling >> >> -- >> >> >> To get on or off this list see list information at >> http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html > >
