Thanks Jeff B, & Bert P.

I will review the note from Ian, and in the meantime did recheck the CPU
(using a logic probe and my BK Precision multimeter).

Crystal Oscillators

   - X1 = 32.76 khz
   - X2 = 4.916 mhz

M19/CPU

   - #1 = constant signal
   - #2 = 4.916 mhz
   - #12-19 (AD0-7) = detect a pulse on all lines
   - #21-28 (A8-15) = detect a pulse on all lines
   - #37 (clk) = 2.458 mhz
   - #40 (vdd) = 4.929 v
   - noted activity or sorts on all other pins.

>From the above it appears the CPU is active, of course without an
oscilloscope (on my list to get), I can only confirm activity present - not
whether good/valid. My next steps are to recheck the physical LCD cable,
and then dive into the "LCD Initialization – From Ian" and see if I can
identify anything there.

Really appreciate the response, it has really helped encourage me onward.
I'll check back with what I discover, and welcome more ideas in the interim.

Cheers, Alan

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 12:17 PM Bert Put <b...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Hi Alan,
>
> I'm with Jeff on this one.  So far you've shown that you've tested
> voltages, cables, even the LCD contrast pot, but you haven't really
> talked about the logic side.  You mentioned you replaced all the RAM
> (even installing sockets), as well as re-capping the board, but so far I
> haven't seen anything to verify that the system clock is running, or
> that the CPU is running.
>
> It will be hard to do this without an oscilloscope but maybe you have a
> frequency counter or something that you can use to verify the clock is
> running, and that the CPU is running?  Jeff's video shows how you can
> check for activity on the address and data lines; without that activity
> literally nothing will happen on the board.  Good luck.
>
> Cheers,    Bert (not Jeff :-)
>
>
> On 7/17/20 2:07 PM, perhaps...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Hi Matt
> >
> > Thanks. I have found similar issue with the LCD cable on the ends,
> > corrected and carefully reinserted. I will take another look, and redo
> > continuity from connector to connector.
> >
> > If I can find a flat ribbon with the correct specs, I’ll also try to
> > order a replacement.
> >
> > Here’s to hoping I missed something with the cable!
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:52 Matthew Stock <st...@csgeeks.org
> > <mailto:st...@csgeeks.org>> wrote:
> >
> >     Hi Alan,
> >
> >     I was working through a similar issue recently.  Fortunately, I had
> >     access to a logic analyzer and was able to confirm that the CPU was
> >     operating properly, and even where in the ROM it was looping.  Once
> >     I was able to determine it was waiting for the LCD status to change,
> >     I rechecked the cable and found that several pins on the cable end
> >     that slide into the LCD connector had delaminated and folded over.
> >     I was able to smooth them out and insert the cable and the LCD
> >     behaved after that.
> >
> >     I know you mentioned that you already checked the cable, but it
> >     might be worth checking the ends and/or run a continuity test from
> >     the soldered connector pins on the motherboard and the LCD board to
> >     be certain you have electrical connectivity all the way through.
> >
> >     Matt
> >
> >
> >     On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 2:15 PM perhaps...@gmail.com
> >     <mailto:perhaps...@gmail.com> <perhaps...@gmail.com
> >     <mailto:perhaps...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> >         Thanks Jeff. I have revisited all the documented diagnostics in
> >         the service manual, and checked/re-checked all the voltages,
> >         reset circuit and LCD.
> >
> >         The current state is that the system has correct voltages in
> >         both power-on/memory-on and power-off/memory-on modes. The LCD
> >         works, in as much as it can be adjusted from light to dark
> >         contrast (full black screen) but displays nothing otherwise.
> >
> >         I have checked the reset signal on the ICs, and see only one
> >         anomaly in M28 (Flip-flop) where:
> >
> >           * Pin #10 (RESET) - Low/0v (reset button out), Low/0v (reset
> >             button in/active)
> >           * Pin #13 (Q) - 0v (reset button out), 0v (reset button
> >             in/active). Neither state shows either high or low.
> >           * I will note that since I don't have a logic chart, I'm not
> >             sure if this is normal or an anomaly.
> >
> >         In addition, I have checked T9, T10, T11 and T25 and with the
> >         exception of T9 all show what I assume is correct behavior on
> >         the Emitter -- H/4.9v (reset out), L/0v (reset in/active).
> >
> >           * T9 however shows L/0.3v (reset out), H/2.7v (reset
> in/active).
> >           * A check of all the transistors via my multimeter (diode
> >             test) shows they all appear to be OK (0.7v from B to E, and
> >             B to C). So T9's behavior might be good, but without
> >             anything to compare I don't know.
> >
> >         I also checked the keyboard, in case it was not working and thus
> >         the <shift><ctl><break><reset> signal would never be seen -- as
> >         best as I can tell it works.
> >
> >         I have checked/rechecked all flat cables connecting LCD +
> >         Keyboard, and they all appear to have no bad connectors or
> >         breaks along the cable (checked in various positions to ensure
> >         not an intermittent break).
> >
> >         Additionally, I have fully charged the memory battery, turned
> >         the system off, removed the AAAs (I have no external power
> >         supply), turned memory off for 15+ mins and repowered the unit.
> >         No change in behaviour. Blind <enter> followed by typing B E E P
> >         doesn't work, and if I leave the unit powered on,
> >         power-save does not turn the unit off.
> >
> >         If the CPU is waiting for the LCD, and stuck in a loop how do I
> >         resolve this? If it is related to M28 and T11 then I can start
> >         with replacing T11. However, I'm reluctant to replace more
> >         parts, as full recap, new X1 and X2 and D13 have not changed the
> >         behavior so far.
> >
> >         At this point, I'm at a loss and would welcome advice - I really
> >         do want to get this fully functional. Thanks in advance. FYI I'm
> >         more than happy to talk real time with anyone offline too.
> >
> >         Cheers,
> >
> >         Alan
> >
> >
> >         On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 5:10 PM Jeffrey Birt
> >         <bir...@soigeneris.com <mailto:bir...@soigeneris.com>> wrote:
> >
> >             One other thing I forgot to mention. I started a video
> >             series on general troubleshooting methodology for vintage
> >             computers. The idea is to cover the troubleshooting process
> >             rather than the repair of a specific computer. The first
> >             video is about evaluation of the computer and getting
> >             yourself started down the right path.____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
> >
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLegscpHOheJt_EpuPs9hfBpOJ5elRhYvw____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
> >             Jeff Birt____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
> >             *From:* M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com
> >             <mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com>> *On Behalf Of
> >             *perhaps...@gmail.com <mailto:perhaps...@gmail.com>
> >             *Sent:* Friday, July 3, 2020 6:28 PM
> >             *To:* m...@bitchin100.com <mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>
> >             *Subject:* Re: [M100] M102, Black Screen, Help!____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
> >             Thanks Jeff.____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
> >             On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 5:27 AM Jeffrey Birt
> >             <bir...@soigeneris.com <mailto:bir...@soigeneris.com>>
> >             wrote:____
> >
> >                 Have you done a hard reset? Ctrl+Break+Reset button.
> >                 Have you checked adjust the screen contrast pot?____
> >
> >             __ __
> >
>

Reply via email to