Thanks for all the responses. I think I am going to try the cream developer 
route on one of them since that is the supplies that I currently have on hand. 
I am going to remove the LCD lens and badge first.

For the bottom black part, I am going to try another trick I learned: Goop hand 
cleaner. It makes plastic look new when buffed into the plastic. It has a very 
mild solvent and I think it probably removes a very tiny bit of the surface 
revealing plastic that has not been exposed to the outside world before. I 
honestly don’t know the chemistry involved, but I stumbled on the effect when 
trying to clean an old computer that had apparently been around a heavy smoker. 
I use a magic eraser to buff it in. 

Goo Gone (not Goof Off!!) also seems to make plastic shiny again. Probably just 
the super fine citrus oil in it.

Scott M.

From: Joshua O'Keefe
Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:13 AM
To: m...@bitchin100.com
Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do?

On Jan 1, 2021, at 5:01 AM, Greg Swallow <gswal...@mchsi.com> wrote:
> Check out the 8-Bit Guy on YouTube as he has a video of how he did 
> retrobrighting. An Amiga I think. He used a large tube of water with H2O2 
> rather than making the paste.

I have done my Amiga 500 with the submersion technique a couple of years back.  
It was a bit late into the season so it took 4 days of submersion with an 
arbitrary amount of water and plain brown bottle H2O2.  I did the keycaps on 
the stovetop and those took the better part of a day. 

 Results for both were very good: the Amiga and keyboard were severely yellowed 
and as these devices were my own from my youth I didn't want them that way as 
it didn't match the memory.  The Amiga and keyboard came out close to original. 
 

With the submersion method it's important to agitate the part periodically 
because tiny bubbles form that will affect the uniformity of the results.  I 
chose submersion because it was easier to control the results and because of 
the lower risk of streaking.

I do not have an opinion how the clear part would fare.  I would definitely be 
concerned about it, but it's possible any issue could be polished out as the 
process only affects the surface of the parts.

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