I don’t know if this picture will embed or not, but this is the result of my retrobright. I decided not to remove the LCD lens because it looked too easy to crack trying to pry it away from the glue. So I just masked it off. I thought it would turn out whiter, but I think the natural color is off-white. Here it is beside a non-whitened case:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MZCpylAc7sEgBvqDzL0j89Z7oVEL8uc_/view?usp=sharing From: Scott McDonnell Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 11:13 AM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? Since I will be ordering the Novus polish, I guess I will order some white epoxy as well to fill in the burn mark on this case. I started disassembly and see that I will need to be careful of the little speaker inside. No way to remove that without breaking some plastic. I also need to make funeral arrangements for the spider that apparently chose the M100 as its preferred final resting place. Scott M. From: Joshua O'Keefe Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:57 AM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? On Jan 1, 2021, at 7:48 AM, Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> wrote: > I am going to remove the LCD lens and badge first. If you're going to have the clear piece out already, I come to very highly recommend Novus 3 step plastic polish to buff out any scratches or wear on it. I had light to moderate "micro" scratches on my LCD lens and even with my fairly poor buffing technique I was able to almost completely rejuvenate the part using steps 2 and 3.
