I believe the original color was a "Bone White" (slight grey and very slight yellow added) as opposed to a "paper white". Your Retrobrighted picture looks very much like my T102, which has never been exposed to sunlight or tobacco smoke, and is the same color on the outside and inside. My M100 was second hand and is slightly more yellowish on the outside than the inside, but only noticeable when sitting next to the T102.
I can't tell from the picture, but how did the function key labels fair in the process. They are silk screened on. At least Radio Shack had the good sense to keep the "double shot molded" keycaps, otherwise the legends would be pretty well expired on most of these computers by now. Regards, Peter <snip> > ----------------------------- > > Message: 14 > Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 09:26:21 -0800 > From: "C.Magaret" <mega...@yahoo.com> > To: m...@bitchin100.com > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > Message-ID: <166a614b-22c6-4051-87ed-e8e4e6817...@yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Agreed. The M100 was originally that off-white color, so I don?t think it > will get much whiter than that. > > CAM > > -- > > C.A. Magaret > > Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo. Please forgive any typos, > inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections. > > > On Jan 3, 2021, at 05:01, Jeffrey Birt <bir...@soigeneris.com> wrote: > > > > ? > > Looks nice! > > > > Jeff Birt > > > > From: M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com> On Behalf Of Scott > McDonnell > > Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 4:10 AM > > To: m...@bitchin100.com > > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > > > I don?t know if this picture will embed or not, but this is the result > of my retrobright. I decided not to remove the LCD lens because it looked > too easy to crack trying to pry it away from the glue. So I just masked it > off. I thought it would turn out whiter, but I think the natural color is > off-white. Here it is beside a non-whitened case: > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MZCpylAc7sEgBvqDzL0j89Z7oVEL8uc_/view?usp=sharing > > > > > > > > From: Scott McDonnell > > Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 11:13 AM > > To: m...@bitchin100.com > > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > > > Since I will be ordering the Novus polish, I guess I will order some > white epoxy as well to fill in the burn mark on this case. > > > > I started disassembly and see that I will need to be careful of the > little speaker inside. No way to remove that without breaking some plastic. > > > > I also need to make funeral arrangements for the spider that apparently > chose the M100 as its preferred final resting place. > > > > Scott M. > > > > From: Joshua O'Keefe > > Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:57 AM > > To: m...@bitchin100.com > > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > > > On Jan 1, 2021, at 7:48 AM, Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> > wrote: > > > I am going to remove the LCD lens and badge first. > > > > If you're going to have the clear piece out already, I come to very > highly recommend Novus 3 step plastic polish to buff out any scratches or > wear on it. I had light to moderate "micro" scratches on my LCD lens and > even with my fairly poor buffing technique I was able to almost completely > rejuvenate the part using steps 2 and 3. > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20210103/0d14bd63/attachment-0001.html > > > > <snip>
