Nice post Errol, i hope everyone that intends to rebuild a decent engine ($$$)
so that it will be given the best chance of reliability reads it. I noticed that
you mention GM rod bolts, we ordered a set or two big end & main kits for a
local rev head rally type in the '70s out of the Nismo catalogue of the day
(special order pay up front in those days, prolly still is) and the rods & bolts
(big end & main) supplied ex Japan were all "Made in England" - we could never
find out by whom, but the money was on the oval badge crowd.
terry
Brad HALLETT wrote:
> Basically the tech that we used as well, although I used to shot peen them
> to relieve surface stresses. The only reason I did it was a friend of mine
> was a machinist in the RAAF and we could do the x-ray, shot peen and
> machining onthe base (permission of course). Saved me heaps of $$$ but cost
> heaps of time.
>
> As you say though Errol preparation is everything.
>
> Thanks for your reply!
>
> Brad HALLETT
> Ipswich, Qld
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2000 8:43 AM
> Subject: Re: Radiators
>
> > Brad,
> > I always use stock rods as they give best bang for your buck.
> >
> > The preparation process in order is :- check centre to centre lengths and
> > get a matched set down to + - 0.001". You will be surprised at the
> > variation in standard production lengths. The rods are then X- rayed to
> > check for cracks or casting bubbles.
> > Select the best set of rods then de-dag them, lighten the big end area and
> > reshape the beams. Increase the side clearances by linishing. This allows
> > better oil flow through the shell carrying away heat.
> > I always fit Chev rod bolts if the engine is to run near 8000 rpm or over.
> > The rods are then aligned to ensure the gudgeon pin and big end are
> > parallel. The big end cap surfaces are then ground and the rod shell
> > surfaces are resized. Balancing to 0.5 grams of the big end and gudgeon
> end
> > is next. The rods are then shot peened.
> >
> > On building the engine I always do the crush on the bearing shells to
> > 0.0035" to ensure good contact between the shell and the rod to carry away
> > heat efficiently.If using forged pistons, I fit bronze bushes in the
> > gudgeon rod end to allow the gudgeon pin to be fully floating. Teflon
> > buttons prevent pin side movement.
> >
> > I know this is a lot of preparation work and it costs, (typically $800/set
> > of rods) but you can be confident the rods will hack anything you throw at
> > them up to 8500 rpm. If anything lets go it will usually be the crank
> > breaking on no 5 journal or a piston eating a lazy valve.
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> >
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: Radiators
> > > Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 1:57
> > >
> > > True Errol but it sounds flash when you say "I have titanium rods"
> > >
> > > I have always used stock 1600 rods in circuit cars and never had a
> > problem,
> > > the only prep being polishing and shot peening. What have you used?
> > >
> > > Brad HALLETT
> > > Ipswich, Qld
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 7:16 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Radiators
> > >
> > >
> > > > The only problem is that titanium has a very limited life in a circuit
> > > type
> > > > engine. It is good in compression (ie when being used in a drag car
> > with
> > > > continuous load applied), but not good in a situation where its
> loading
> > is
> > > > compressive then tensile back to compressive etc as in a circuit car.
> > > > Alternating load types cause it to work harden and after a limited
> time
> > > > cracks develop. This is also true for titanium in valves etc which is
> > why
> > > > the group A teams change valves every race meeting or two depending on
> > > > budget
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Feral Errol
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: Re: Radiators
> > > > Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 12:40
> > > >
> > > > RE: ClutchI would love to get my hands on the rods and crank
> > > >
> > > > yeehaa!
> > > > Brad HALLETT
> > > > Ipswich, Qld
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Jim Jones
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 12:15 PM
> > > > Subject: RE: Radiators
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The reason for my asking is that I managed to get a hold of the
> Nismo
> > > > built version ( Bathurst Bluebirds) complete with titanium rods and
> > crank,
> > > > sand bent extractors( which I have since tossed as the placement of
> the
> > > > turbo with the external wastegate was a shocker) etc about 5 years ago
> > and
> > > > the car has never really been on the road since. However the ball and
> > > > chain has since changed her mind and would rather it go than gather
> > dust.
> > > > So she should be ready in the next few months
> > > >
> > > > Has anyone wound one of these up. I would be interested in knowing
> > what
> > > > kind of power figures have been achieved to date with various
> > > combinations.
> > > > The figures that they were quoting at while at Bathurst were a little
> > far
> > > > fetched however I believe at times they did run 36PSI .
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris (CP)
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, 19 April 2000 23:04
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: RE: Radiators
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > yes i've seen a few
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jim Jones
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 9:12 AM
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: RE: Radiators
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > > Do you know of many Z18T's that have had extensive mods
> > undertaken.
> > > >
> > > > Jim
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris (CP)
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, 19 April 2000 10:58
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: Radiators
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bought an N14 pulsar radiator for my z18t. The bottom pipe is
> > on
> > > > the wrong side but it fits (JUST). It had twin
> > > > thermos so i couldn't resist. anyone else tried these. Tanks
> > are
> > > > on top and bottom not like n13 left and right
> > > >
> > > >
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