ok that's sounds good but my ball joints are 1 year old and are as smooth
as and all boots are intact the same as the out tie rod ends (done at same
time) I would asume they would have at least a 5 year life span. But i
did'nt know about reversing the struts so i put them in with the calliper
facing the back of the car.( the same way the old ones came out.)
>Albs,
>At a guess your ball joints and/or outer tie rod ends are rs as in they need
>replacing. I struck this problem on a 510 a while back, the ball joints where
>shot but the tie rods where only marginal. The same problem that you have only
>surfaced after I changed the struts on the car to 200B and the scraping was
>noticeable under heavy brakes and hitting bad bumps. There is a good pic of
>what happens if you don't use the backing plate on Zac's 1600 Adelaide site. I
>replaced the ball joints and the outer tie rods and there has been no more
>contact with the lower control arm since.
>
>Question for the list.
>The curious thing at the time was why does this problem only show up when you
>do the 200B or 240K strut upgrade? - beats me but it does, anything to do with
>reversing struts?
>
>terry
>
>Albs wrote:
>
>> Hi all i have just fitted a pair of 240k struts and brakes to my 1600 and
>> you guessed it I have made another problem (the story of my life) when I go
>> over bumps and accerate the lower control arm pushes into the backing plate
>> of the disc and causes alot of noise and slows the car. So i have groung
>> the lip of the edge of the lower control arm and now only rubs and really
>> large bumps and on full lock. So what's the go I have'nt heard yet of what
>> you surposed to do there?
>>
>
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