Andrew,
You are right about the rust susceptibility of seam welded areas. If you
can get a rust preventative around both sides of the weld you are usually
ok - if not you will have rust starting where the previous coating has been
burnt away.
If you could dunk the welded part in rust proof paint or at least spray it
into the welded area - both sides - you should be right. There are not too
many areas you cant get spray into. Even the door sills and pillars can be
sprayed internally from inside the car. The front part of the rear inner
guards are a challenge, but if you spray down from the rear quarter vent
holes as well as from the boot you can get pretty good coverage.
It is important to use a good rust proof coating that can be then painted
over. Dont simply cover welded areas with sound deadener only. It dries,
cracks and then channels moisture to the uncoated area - and you cant see
rust happening. Always rust proof before coating with deadener. Talk to a
quality panel shop supplier for info on the best products to use in each
application.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Schultz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, 23 October 2000 22:52 PM
Subject: Re: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
> List,
>
> Talk of seam welding has got me thinking, but about chassis strength.
> Could you run into problems with seam welding and welding other gussets
> etc to the car?
>
> When you weld you 'burn away' alot of paint etc, in areas that you can
> get to for repainting/undercoating.
>
> I might be barking up the wrong tree, but for a street car that gets
> dricen a lot, rust prevention is crucial.
>
> I'd like to hear from people who have done a fair bit of seam welding,
> as I'd like to do my car but also want it be as close to rust proof as
> you can get a 1600.
>
> Cheers
>
> Andrew S
>
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