Another fish oil enthusiast
I suppose life as a fish would suck if you rusted?????

Anyone ever sus you out over the syringe???

I bet when you drive around you get followed by Cats and Coppers.

I can just see it, the Chemist calls the coppers, and surveillance teams
follow the mad bastard in the Datsun who has the biggest habit they have
seen and obviously robs seafood outlets

Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk

Regards
Brad HALLETT
http://www.powerup.com.au/~bhallett

Proudly Endorsing:
...DATRATS...
http://203.33.35.34
Datsun Dedicated
For Nissan Motorsport Components
Professional Budget Priced competition equipment
Contact Errol SMITH
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.


Another rust slowing hint for you people out there is wot I do twice a year.

Get a 2 litre tin of fish oil.

Go to the chemist on the way home and buy the biggest syringe you can get
off him.

It should only cost you a couple off bucks.

Go home and fill the syringe full off fish oil and inject it into every
little hole you can get the needle into.

If you use the whole 2 litres on a 1600 you will have fish oil running out
off wierd places for about 4 weeks.

I recon this should keep the rust at bay.

I hope this helps.
Till then bye for now.
Rick White.

--- "Brad HALLETT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>Hey ppl,
>an easy way I have used in the past to prevent rust in unaccessible areas
is
>the following (bear with me it is a bit weird)
>
>1) Geta good rust preventative such as tectyl, OR killrust paint if you
>prefer
>2) Get a length of garden sprinkler tube and a small jet nozzle like is
used
>in basket garden sprinklers
>3) Modify an engine cleaning gun by putting the tube on the end of the
>nozzle, you will probably need an adapter.  Thin down the tectyl/killrust
>and wind down the pressure until it can be reliably sprayed out of the
small
>nozzle.
>
>4) Drill an appropriate sized small hole in the bottom of the inaccessible
>area and feed the nozzle and tube in.  Slowly ull the tube out whilst
>applying the spray.  This will cover the inner surfac and you have a small
>drain hole as well, or you can putty it over if you like.
>
>I have also seen simpler versions using the spray button and rigid tube off
>a CRC can on a killrust can, and I have also seen CRC sprayed in as a rust
>preventative.
>
>Hope this helps
>
>
>Regards
>Brad HALLETT
>http://www.powerup.com.au/~bhallett
>
>Proudly Endorsing:
>...DATRATS...
>http://203.33.35.34
>Datsun Dedicated
>For Nissan Motorsport Components
>Professional Budget Priced competition equipment
>Contact Errol SMITH
>email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
>Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 8:51 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
>
>
>Andrew,
>
>You are right about the rust susceptibility of seam welded areas.  If you
>can get a rust preventative around both sides of the weld you are usually
>ok - if not you will have rust starting where the previous coating has been
>burnt away.
>If you could dunk the welded part in rust proof paint or at least spray it
>into the welded area - both sides - you should be right.  There are not too
>many areas you cant get spray into.  Even the door sills and pillars can be
>sprayed internally from inside the car.  The front part of the rear inner
>guards are a challenge, but if you spray down from the rear quarter vent
>holes as well as from the boot you can get pretty good coverage.
>It is important to use a good rust proof coating that can be then painted
>over.  Dont simply cover welded areas with sound deadener only.  It dries,
>cracks and then channels moisture to the uncoated area - and you cant see
>rust happening.  Always rust proof before coating with deadener.  Talk to a
>quality panel shop supplier for info on the best products to use in each
>application.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andrew Schultz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Monday, 23 October 2000 22:52 PM
>Subject: Re: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
>
>
>> List,
>>
>> Talk of seam welding has got me thinking, but about chassis strength.
>> Could you run into problems with seam welding and welding other gussets
>> etc to the car?
>>
>> When you weld you 'burn away' alot of paint etc, in areas that you can
>> get to for repainting/undercoating.
>>
>> I might be barking up the wrong tree, but for a street car that gets
>> dricen a lot, rust prevention is crucial.
>>
>> I'd like to hear from people who have done a fair bit of seam welding,
>> as I'd like to do my car but also want it be as close to rust proof as
>> you can get a 1600.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Andrew S
>>
>
>

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