Yeah you've made me think twice now brad = ) maybe I'll just stick to the
tectyl, more inconspicuous.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad HALLETT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 2:02 AM
Subject: RE: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
> Another fish oil enthusiast
> I suppose life as a fish would suck if you rusted?????
>
> Anyone ever sus you out over the syringe???
>
> I bet when you drive around you get followed by Cats and Coppers.
>
> I can just see it, the Chemist calls the coppers, and surveillance teams
> follow the mad bastard in the Datsun who has the biggest habit they have
> seen and obviously robs seafood outlets
>
> Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk
>
> Regards
> Brad HALLETT
> http://www.powerup.com.au/~bhallett
>
> Proudly Endorsing:
> ...DATRATS...
> http://203.33.35.34
> Datsun Dedicated
> For Nissan Motorsport Components
> Professional Budget Priced competition equipment
> Contact Errol SMITH
> email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:01 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
>
>
> Another rust slowing hint for you people out there is wot I do twice a
year.
>
> Get a 2 litre tin of fish oil.
>
> Go to the chemist on the way home and buy the biggest syringe you can get
> off him.
>
> It should only cost you a couple off bucks.
>
> Go home and fill the syringe full off fish oil and inject it into every
> little hole you can get the needle into.
>
> If you use the whole 2 litres on a 1600 you will have fish oil running out
> off wierd places for about 4 weeks.
>
> I recon this should keep the rust at bay.
>
> I hope this helps.
> Till then bye for now.
> Rick White.
>
> --- "Brad HALLETT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >Hey ppl,
> >an easy way I have used in the past to prevent rust in unaccessible areas
> is
> >the following (bear with me it is a bit weird)
> >
> >1) Geta good rust preventative such as tectyl, OR killrust paint if you
> >prefer
> >2) Get a length of garden sprinkler tube and a small jet nozzle like is
> used
> >in basket garden sprinklers
> >3) Modify an engine cleaning gun by putting the tube on the end of the
> >nozzle, you will probably need an adapter. Thin down the tectyl/killrust
> >and wind down the pressure until it can be reliably sprayed out of the
> small
> >nozzle.
> >
> >4) Drill an appropriate sized small hole in the bottom of the
inaccessible
> >area and feed the nozzle and tube in. Slowly ull the tube out whilst
> >applying the spray. This will cover the inner surfac and you have a
small
> >drain hole as well, or you can putty it over if you like.
> >
> >I have also seen simpler versions using the spray button and rigid tube
off
> >a CRC can on a killrust can, and I have also seen CRC sprayed in as a
rust
> >preventative.
> >
> >Hope this helps
> >
> >
> >Regards
> >Brad HALLETT
> >http://www.powerup.com.au/~bhallett
> >
> >Proudly Endorsing:
> >...DATRATS...
> >http://203.33.35.34
> >Datsun Dedicated
> >For Nissan Motorsport Components
> >Professional Budget Priced competition equipment
> >Contact Errol SMITH
> >email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
> >Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 8:51 PM
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
> >
> >
> >Andrew,
> >
> >You are right about the rust susceptibility of seam welded areas. If you
> >can get a rust preventative around both sides of the weld you are usually
> >ok - if not you will have rust starting where the previous coating has
been
> >burnt away.
> >If you could dunk the welded part in rust proof paint or at least spray
it
> >into the welded area - both sides - you should be right. There are not
too
> >many areas you cant get spray into. Even the door sills and pillars can
be
> >sprayed internally from inside the car. The front part of the rear inner
> >guards are a challenge, but if you spray down from the rear quarter vent
> >holes as well as from the boot you can get pretty good coverage.
> >It is important to use a good rust proof coating that can be then painted
> >over. Dont simply cover welded areas with sound deadener only. It
dries,
> >cracks and then channels moisture to the uncoated area - and you cant see
> >rust happening. Always rust proof before coating with deadener. Talk to
a
> >quality panel shop supplier for info on the best products to use in each
> >application.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Andrew Schultz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Monday, 23 October 2000 22:52 PM
> >Subject: Re: Strengthening the 1600 chassis.
> >
> >
> >> List,
> >>
> >> Talk of seam welding has got me thinking, but about chassis strength.
> >> Could you run into problems with seam welding and welding other gussets
> >> etc to the car?
> >>
> >> When you weld you 'burn away' alot of paint etc, in areas that you can
> >> get to for repainting/undercoating.
> >>
> >> I might be barking up the wrong tree, but for a street car that gets
> >> dricen a lot, rust prevention is crucial.
> >>
> >> I'd like to hear from people who have done a fair bit of seam welding,
> >> as I'd like to do my car but also want it be as close to rust proof as
> >> you can get a 1600.
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >> Andrew S
> >>
> >
> >
>
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