Also check the cap, when we tried to fire up mine after the rebuild and it
wouldn't run., and when it did, it backfired misfired an carried on.
Cleaned out carbies quadriple check all ignition parts. Two days of
tinkering with various cam timing and ignition timing yielded no results.
Old man ripped of brand new distributor cap I brought and put the old one
back on, one flick of the switch and it ran like a charm.
Took the old new one back, exchanged it for another. Same problem, (and yes
it was the right one it even had the same bosch part number on it!) The old
one served me well until I put on the series two electronic dizzy!
Moral of story, check everything and don't always rely on quality
control!!!!!
My two and a bit cents
----- Original Message -----
From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem
>
>
> ----------
> From: Diarmuid Tyson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Ignition Problem
> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 8:28
>
> Help!
> Once again I have spent hours on my car only to have it running worse.
> Fix ignition switch, so I figure its time to install BB electronic dizzy I
> have lying around. Bolts up like a charm, wire up, loads of spark
> (shitloads) on all plugs. Start her up and she runs like a dog. Won't
> idle so I can't stick timing light on. Even after turning dizzy to 4 or
so
> different positions.
>
> Can someone confirm I've got the basics correct-
> Cylinder 1 - closest to radiator
> Cylinder 4 - closest to driver
> Dizzy Terminal 1 - closest to radiator
> Dizzy Rotation - counter clockwise
> Firing Order - 1 3 4 2
>
> Is it possible to have bolted the Dizzy on backwards? The vac advance
> canister is closest to the radiator.
> Thanks,
> D.
>
>
>
>
>
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