Are you taking into consideration that a motor with head work, extractors 
and free flowing exhaust is going to operate more efficiently than a stock 
motor?  My engine is stock and running SUs and I even noticed an increase in 
power, torque AND economy by fitting extractors and sports system.  Sure the 
motor will use more fuel if you floor it but your going faster too, speed 
comes at the expense of fuel.  Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that 
if a stock motor goes say.. 0-100 in 12sec then a worked motor will be able 
to do the same time using less fuel due to greater efficiency.

James

>
>
>well yeh i kane the crap outa it. according to my principal i reach speeds
>well over 80kph between the 2 speedumps at our skool that are about 40mtrs
>apart. wanker. if i did get it to 80 the car would get hammered come the
>speed hump.
>
>but yeh we did a milage consuption test and i had to drive it like an old
>fart (which sucked ass) and it only got 26mpg driving it like miss daisy on
>a sunday. so i dont get it.. if a 15 second car is getting 30mpg.
>ohwell. tom what consuption approx u think u would get with the Z20e? did u
>test it?
>
>Ryan.
>
>>From: "Denzil Palmer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>>Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:46:14 +1200
>>
>>Yes you WILL get 30+ mpg average with SU's and a torquer cam on an L20B.
>>
>>On my car I averaged 31mpg over 30,000 miles driving in general like a
>>controlled maniac, if that makes sense. On a high 15 second car. And yes
>>that was adjusting periodically for odometer error(tyre wear is actually
>>quite noticeable in this respect!).
>>
>>Denzil Palmer
>>
>>----------
>> >From: "Tom Richardson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Subject: RE: L20B mods. + mpg
>> >Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 1:52 AM
>> >
>>
>> > Ryan,
>> >
>> > It's cause you cane the crap out of your car, that's why! (If that
>>evening
>> > was anything to go by :)
>> > Also remember your stereo would weigh quite a lot, which wouldn't help
>>at
>> > all
>> >
>> > - Tom
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of 1600 BoY
>> > Sent: Monday, 26 March 2001 10:46 PM
>> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>> >
>> >
>> > u said u should get 30plus mpg with sus. i got a l20b, mild cam, and i
>>dont
>> > know if its the way i drive it(hard) - or not but im getting about
>>20mpg...
>> > its got a 240k carby on it.
>> >
>> > any suggestions why it would be so low?
>> >
>> > thanks,
>> > ryan
>> >
>> >
>> >>From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>> >>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:15:37 +1000
>> >>
>> >>I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
>> >>dont
>> >>have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump.  They dont 
>>come
>>on
>> >>really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock
>>carby
>> >>set up.
>> >>You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
>>that
>> >>will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
>> >>
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
>> >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great
>>induction
>> >>noise and
>> >> > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't
>>change
>> >>much at
>> >> > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
>> >> >
>> >> > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
>> >>1981
>> >>200B
>> >> > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came
>>out
>> >>in
>> >> > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need
>>to
>> >>know.
>> >> > >
>> >> > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
>> >>different
>> >> > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also
>>get
>> >>the
>> >> > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my
>>friend
>> >>has
>> >> > > about it...he says it's extreme.
>> >> > >
>> >> > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got
>>a
>> >>ye
>> >>olde
>> >> > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
>> >>fuel
>> >>(you
>> >> > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Paul
>> >> > >
>> >> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
>> >> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>> >> > >
>> >> > > > G'day all,
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
>> >> > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy 
>>with
>> >>the
>> >> > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and
>>change
>> >>of
>> >> > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
>> >> > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull
>>and
>> >> > > Trading
>> >> > > > post.
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). 
>>Desirable
>> >>features
>> >> > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, 
>>lowish
>> >>mileage.
>> >> > > > cost 2nd hand $100
>> >> > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
>> >> > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous 
>>clutch,
>> >>fan
>> >>does
>> >> > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
>> >> > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger 
>>clutch,
>> >>very
>> >> > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
>> >> > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
>> >> > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
>> >> > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
>> >>horrible
>> >> > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
>> >> > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1  cost
>>~$30
>> >> > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
>> >> > > > Regards,
>> >> > > > Nick
>> >> > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
>> >> > > > Subject: Newbie
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > >
>> >> > > > > Hello all on the list!
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
>> >>years,
>> >> > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life.  I
>> >>could
>> >>get
>> >> > > it
>> >> > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
>> >>that
>> >> > > > > done.  I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
>> >>suggested
>> >> > > an
>> >> > > > > L20B motor.  This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
>> >>swap
>> >>and
>> >> > > > I'm
>> >> > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
>> >>with
>> >>a
>> >> > > > > little more urge than normal.  However, anything that I *can*
>>get
>> >>out of
>> >> > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to
>>spend
>> >>heaps
>> >> > > > and
>> >> > > > > gain little).
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?
>>What
>> >>can
>> >> > > be
>> >> > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a 
>>little
>> >>more
>> >> > > > power,
>> >> > > > > without going overboard?  By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
>> >>interested
>> >>in
>> >> > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster.  This is my daily
>>driver,
>> >>and
>> >> > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; 
>>I
>> >>can't
>> >> > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra
>>(including
>> >> > > > > polishing etc).  A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
>> >>just
>> >> > > don't
>> >> > > > > know what yet.
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > > > Thanks in advance,
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > > > Brian K.
>> >> > > > >
>> >> > > >
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>_________________________________________________________________________
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>> >
>> >
>>
>
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