well we got the carby tuned by datsport in lonsdale(adelaide) so thats not
the problem. guess its my lead foot. but i expected even still a little
better from it. well hopefully by the end of the year ill get a z20e which
has a lot more power and would be better if tom said its got ~same economy.
>From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:48:27 +1000
>
>Have you rejetted it to suit your L20? or just plonked it on?
>
>Carbies are tuned instruments that require the right airflow speeds and jet
>sizes to correctly mix the fuel through the rev range. It sounds like its
>delivering fuel at the rate a 240K would use it but the 240 has 2 more
>cylinders to use it and hence higher air flows to mix it in.
>
>On the other hand hard driving will pull down the fuel economy, but speed
>costs money as we all know. I used to be driven in an L18 powered 1600
>hard
>enough to get it down to less than 5 MPG. But that was in tight forest
>roads at continuously high revs, sucking fuel through 4 45mm weber chokes
>-
>quite expensive - great fun. I am talking about 80 kms to a complete
>tankful of fuel! How does 20MPG look now!
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "1600 BoY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Monday, 26 March 2001 23:15 PM
>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>
>
> > u said u should get 30plus mpg with sus. i got a l20b, mild cam, and i
>dont
> > know if its the way i drive it(hard) - or not but im getting about
>20mpg...
> > its got a 240k carby on it.
> >
> > any suggestions why it would be so low?
> >
> > thanks,
> > ryan
> >
> >
> > >From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:15:37 +1000
> > >
> > >I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
> > >dont
> > >have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump. They dont
>come
>on
> > >really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock
>carby
> > >set up.
> > >You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
>that
> > >will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
> > >Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >
> > >
> > > > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great
>induction
> > >noise and
> > > > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't
>change
> > >much at
> > > > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
> > > >
> > > > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
> > >1981
> > >200B
> > > > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came
>out
> > >in
> > > > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need
>to
> > >know.
> > > > >
> > > > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
> > >different
> > > > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also
>get
> > >the
> > > > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my
>friend
> > >has
> > > > > about it...he says it's extreme.
> > > > >
> > > > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got
>a
> > >ye
> > >olde
> > > > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
> > >fuel
> > >(you
> > > > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > > > >
> > > > > > G'day all,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > > > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy
>with
> > >the
> > > > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and
>change
> > >of
> > > > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > > > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull
>and
> > > > > Trading
> > > > > > post.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!).
>Desirable
> > >features
> > > > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank,
>lowish
> > >mileage.
> > > > > > cost 2nd hand $100
> > > > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > > > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous
>clutch,
> > >fan
> > >does
> > > > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > > > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger
>clutch,
> > >very
> > > > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > > > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > > > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > > > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
> > >horrible
> > > > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > > > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1 cost
>~$30
> > > > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> > > > > >
> > > > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > Nick
> > > > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Newbie
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hello all on the list!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
> > >years,
> > > > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life. I
> > >could
> > >get
> > > > > it
> > > > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
> > >that
> > > > > > > done. I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
> > >suggested
> > > > > an
> > > > > > > L20B motor. This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
> > >swap
> > >and
> > > > > > I'm
> > > > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
> > >with
> > >a
> > > > > > > little more urge than normal. However, anything that I *can*
>get
> > >out of
> > > > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to
>spend
> > >heaps
> > > > > > and
> > > > > > > gain little).
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?
>What
> > >can
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a
>little
> > >more
> > > > > > power,
> > > > > > > without going overboard? By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
> > >interested
> > >in
> > > > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster. This is my daily
>driver,
> > >and
> > > > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor;
>I
> > >can't
> > > > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra
>(including
> > > > > > > polishing etc). A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
> > >just
> > > > > don't
> > > > > > > know what yet.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Brian K.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>_________________________________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
>http://www.hotmail.com.
> >
>
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