That's it, much greater efficiency. The same or greater amount of work is 
done using less fuel.

I should have clarified that my motor was carefully built on a "torque for
the road" basis, resulting in very good low and mid-range efficiency,
excellent cylinder filling and carbs tuned fairly lean. The concept was a
car that had a useful 4th gear from 25 -100 mph(1,500-5,800 rpm) for example
30 -50 in 4th in 5.5sec or so, 60 - 80 in 4th in 7.5 or so. The "torque
back-up or torque reserve", that is, the potentially available torque over
the required torque at a given engine speed in the low to medium speed range
was greater than a motor tuned for big horsepower at high revs. This made
hills virtually unnoticeable, even in 5th on sustained climbs with
acceleration still available if required.

I wouldn't expect the same economy with the same sort of driving with a
standard motor with the SU's. Instead of 31 maybe you would get 27mpg, and
significantly slower as well.

----------
>From: "James Cox" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 4:39 AM
>

> Are you taking into consideration that a motor with head work, extractors
> and free flowing exhaust is going to operate more efficiently than a stock
> motor?  My engine is stock and running SUs and I even noticed an increase in
> power, torque AND economy by fitting extractors and sports system.  Sure the
> motor will use more fuel if you floor it but your going faster too, speed
> comes at the expense of fuel.  Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that
> if a stock motor goes say.. 0-100 in 12sec then a worked motor will be able
> to do the same time using less fuel due to greater efficiency.
>
> James
>
>>
>>
>>well yeh i kane the crap outa it. according to my principal i reach speeds
>>well over 80kph between the 2 speedumps at our skool that are about 40mtrs
>>apart. wanker. if i did get it to 80 the car would get hammered come the
>>speed hump.
>>
>>but yeh we did a milage consuption test and i had to drive it like an old
>>fart (which sucked ass) and it only got 26mpg driving it like miss daisy on
>>a sunday. so i dont get it.. if a 15 second car is getting 30mpg.
>>ohwell. tom what consuption approx u think u would get with the Z20e? did u
>>test it?
>>
>>Ryan.
>>
>>>From: "Denzil Palmer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>>>Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:46:14 +1200
>>>
>>>Yes you WILL get 30+ mpg average with SU's and a torquer cam on an L20B.
>>>
>>>On my car I averaged 31mpg over 30,000 miles driving in general like a
>>>controlled maniac, if that makes sense. On a high 15 second car. And yes
>>>that was adjusting periodically for odometer error(tyre wear is actually
>>>quite noticeable in this respect!).
>>>
>>>Denzil Palmer
>>>
>>>----------
>>> >From: "Tom Richardson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >Subject: RE: L20B mods. + mpg
>>> >Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 1:52 AM
>>> >
>>>
>>> > Ryan,
>>> >
>>> > It's cause you cane the crap out of your car, that's why! (If that
>>>evening
>>> > was anything to go by :)
>>> > Also remember your stereo would weigh quite a lot, which wouldn't help
>>>at
>>> > all
>>> >
>>> > - Tom
>>> >
>>> > -----Original Message-----
>>> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of 1600 BoY
>>> > Sent: Monday, 26 March 2001 10:46 PM
>>> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> > Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > u said u should get 30plus mpg with sus. i got a l20b, mild cam, and i
>>>dont
>>> > know if its the way i drive it(hard) - or not but im getting about
>>>20mpg...
>>> > its got a 240k carby on it.
>>> >
>>> > any suggestions why it would be so low?
>>> >
>>> > thanks,
>>> > ryan
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >>From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>>> >>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:15:37 +1000
>>> >>
>>> >>I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
>>> >>dont
>>> >>have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump.  They dont
>>>come
>>>on
>>> >>really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock
>>>carby
>>> >>set up.
>>> >>You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
>>>that
>>> >>will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
>>> >>
>>> >>----- Original Message -----
>>> >>From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
>>> >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great
>>>induction
>>> >>noise and
>>> >> > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't
>>>change
>>> >>much at
>>> >> > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
>>> >> >
>>> >> > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
>>> >> >
>>> >> > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
>>> >>1981
>>> >>200B
>>> >> > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came
>>>out
>>> >>in
>>> >> > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need
>>>to
>>> >>know.
>>> >> > >
>>> >> > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
>>> >>different
>>> >> > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also
>>>get
>>> >>the
>>> >> > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my
>>>friend
>>> >>has
>>> >> > > about it...he says it's extreme.
>>> >> > >
>>> >> > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got
>>>a
>>> >>ye
>>> >>olde
>>> >> > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
>>> >>fuel
>>> >>(you
>>> >> > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
>>> >> > >
>>> >> > > Paul
>>> >> > >
>>> >> > > ----- Original Message -----
>>> >> > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >> > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
>>> >> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>>> >> > >
>>> >> > > > G'day all,
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
>>> >> > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy
>>>with
>>> >>the
>>> >> > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and
>>>change
>>> >>of
>>> >> > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
>>> >> > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull
>>>and
>>> >> > > Trading
>>> >> > > > post.
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!).
>>>Desirable
>>> >>features
>>> >> > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank,
>>>lowish
>>> >>mileage.
>>> >> > > > cost 2nd hand $100
>>> >> > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
>>> >> > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous
>>>clutch,
>>> >>fan
>>> >>does
>>> >> > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
>>> >> > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger
>>>clutch,
>>> >>very
>>> >> > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
>>> >> > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
>>> >> > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
>>> >> > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
>>> >>horrible
>>> >> > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
>>> >> > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1  cost
>>>~$30
>>> >> > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
>>> >> > > > Regards,
>>> >> > > > Nick
>>> >> > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > > ----- Original Message -----
>>> >> > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >> > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >> > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
>>> >> > > > Subject: Newbie
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > > > > Hello all on the list!
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
>>> >>years,
>>> >> > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life.  I
>>> >>could
>>> >>get
>>> >> > > it
>>> >> > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
>>> >>that
>>> >> > > > > done.  I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
>>> >>suggested
>>> >> > > an
>>> >> > > > > L20B motor.  This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
>>> >>swap
>>> >>and
>>> >> > > > I'm
>>> >> > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
>>> >>with
>>> >>a
>>> >> > > > > little more urge than normal.  However, anything that I *can*
>>>get
>>> >>out of
>>> >> > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to
>>>spend
>>> >>heaps
>>> >> > > > and
>>> >> > > > > gain little).
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?
>>>What
>>> >>can
>>> >> > > be
>>> >> > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a
>>>little
>>> >>more
>>> >> > > > power,
>>> >> > > > > without going overboard?  By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
>>> >>interested
>>> >>in
>>> >> > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster.  This is my daily
>>>driver,
>>> >>and
>>> >> > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor;
>>>I
>>> >>can't
>>> >> > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra
>>>(including
>>> >> > > > > polishing etc).  A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
>>> >>just
>>> >> > > don't
>>> >> > > > > know what yet.
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > > > Thanks in advance,
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > > > Brian K.
>>> >> > > > >
>>> >> > > >
>>> >> > >
>>> >> >
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>>_________________________________________________________________________
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>>>http://www.hotmail.com.
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________________
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>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
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