hi, have you done a wet and dry test? for a wet test , just put a oil container cap ful of oil in the cylinder and give it a nother reading. the variance in the readings seem ok to me, i have had cylinders with about 40 difference, and every thing ran fine, no broken head gasket.
that variance could be , slightly worn rings, maybe it needs a valve grind etc.... USUALLY, if it is blown , it blows between two cylinders, you will have a high,low,low,high reading like that.. i`ll bet you 20 dollars the head gasket is not blown. its not thaoften that you`wll get all cylinders reading EXACTLY the same. mark k ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 2:31 PM Subject: Re: worked L20B running hot > Yep, > > I have done a Compression test 1.200 2.180 3.200 4.196 so I think it is > safe to say she's blown. Well what radiator can I use I read to use a n13 > pulsar radiator but the in-outlets are on the wrong sides. There must be a > bigger radiator I can use with out too many modifications. > > Chris W > > > > A couple of points. > > When you first fill a radiator from scratch you have to allow the > > system to bleed all of the air out from heater, bypasses etc. It > > doesn't happen until the thermostat opens and the water level in the > > radiator can drop substantially as it replaces the trapped air - just > > saying. > > > > I have my doubts about using a Galant 1600 radiator - the minimum > > capacity for a 200B would need to be 9-10 litres, for a hot one? I > > think a stock 1600 radiator capacity is 7.5 litres and they can get > > stretched by a 200B. > > > > I'd do the usual blown head gasket tests as suggested all the same. > > > > regadrs > > Terry > > > >> Chris . > >> Sounds like the head gasket is blown if there is no water in the > >> radiator. Maybee it also could be the radiatior cap isn't saling > >> itself and the water is siphoning out all by itself. Later Rick. > >> > >> --- "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> >Hi, > >> > I finaly got my worked L20B in to my 1600 after my fan wrote off > >> > one > >> >radiator, then next one was blocked, then i found it would cost $260 > >> >(trade) to recore the blocked one it had the cancer as well. Then i > >> >could not find one to fit but then found a chrysler galant ($60) one > >> >was almost perfect just had to move the angle of the bottom outlet > >> >which cost me $20 so i thought $80 was better then $260. Great I'm > >> >driving again so it is fine for a while then it is overheating I > >> >check the radiator no water WTF? I have only filled it up half an > >> >hour a ago. I wait for it to cool down then fill it back up then > >> >driving again temp it about half way but i was told it would run hot > >> >anyway. It is fine for an hour then the temp starts to creeap up > >> >again so I stop and look then open the radiator after a while and it > >> >is steaming and boiling and carrying on ? > >> > > >> >any ideas the engine is like 300Ks old. > >> > > >> >Could it just be that the radiator is not big enough? > >> > > >> >regards > >> > > >> >Chris W > >> > > >> > > >> > >> _____________________________________________________________ > >> Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > >> ---> http://www.ozdat.com > >> > >> > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
