Chris,

I find a compression test pretty inconclusive as far as head gaskets go
except when it completely stuffed and it really has to be blown between two
cylinders to give you a good indication. A breach between a cylinder and a
water jacket will not show up on a compression test. I doubt your engine is
that bad as you can drive it for some time in it's present condition. The
only conclusive test for a blown head gasket is a probe that sniffs carbon
monoxide (most radiator places have them) or observing the bubbles in the
radiator when blipping the throttle which is pretty conclusive too. Another
telltale sign that the head gasket is not well is a very quick pressure
build up in the cooling system, like in 2 minutes from cold, again not
totally conclusive.

You can use a N13 radiator with a L engine, you've just got to be a bit
creative with the hoses or get the odd fittings made up by a rad expert.
Personally, I'd look at the Commodore radiator as i've seen these in a few
1600's around here and they seem to do the business real well although with
some brands (cheap) the quality of a Holden radiator is dubious - the tell
me Natrads or Everlasts are pretty good.

regards
Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Williams
Sent: Wednesday, 13 February 2002 3:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: worked L20B running hot


Yep,

I have done a Compression test 1.200 2.180 3.200 4.196 so I think it is
safe to say she's blown.  Well what radiator can I use I read to use a n13
pulsar radiator but the in-outlets are on the wrong sides.  There must be a
bigger radiator I can use with out too many modifications.

Chris W
>
> A couple of points.
> When you first fill a radiator from scratch you have to allow the
> system to bleed all of the air out from heater, bypasses etc. It
> doesn't happen until the thermostat opens and the water level in the
> radiator can drop substantially as it replaces the trapped air - just
> saying.
>
> I have my doubts about using a Galant 1600 radiator - the minimum
> capacity for a 200B would need to be 9-10 litres, for a hot one? I
> think a stock 1600 radiator capacity is 7.5 litres and they can get
> stretched by a 200B.
>
> I'd do the usual blown head gasket tests as suggested all the same.
>
> regadrs
> Terry
>
>> Chris .
>> Sounds like the head gasket is blown if there is no water in the
>> radiator. Maybee it also could be the radiatior cap isn't saling
>> itself and the water is siphoning out all by itself. Later Rick.
>>
>> --- "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >Hi,
>> >   I finaly got my worked L20B in to my 1600 after my fan wrote off
>> >   one
>> >radiator, then next one was blocked, then i found it would cost $260
>> >(trade) to recore the blocked one it had the cancer as well.  Then i
>> >could not find one to fit but then found a chrysler galant ($60) one
>> >was almost perfect just had to move the angle of the bottom outlet
>> >which cost me $20 so i thought $80 was better then $260.  Great I'm
>> >driving again so it is fine for a while then it is overheating I
>> >check the radiator no water WTF? I have only filled it up half an
>> >hour a ago.  I wait for it to cool down then fill it back up then
>> >driving again temp it about half way but i was told it would run hot
>> >anyway.  It is fine for an hour then the temp starts to creeap up
>> >again so I stop and look then open the radiator after a while and it
>> >is steaming and boiling and carrying on ?
>> >
>> >any ideas the engine is like 300Ks old.
>> >
>> >Could it just be that the radiator is not big enough?
>> >
>> >regards
>> >
>> >Chris W
>> >
>> >
>>
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>
>




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