Title: RE: worked L20B running hot

Was the head re-tensioned after it was fitted?

You should always re-tension. Even when using a mono-torque head gasket you should still go round the head bolts to make sure they are still tight.

I cant remember whether you have to do it hot or cold with alloy heads? but if you dont the bolts can be only finger tight in some cases!!!!

Ross G

    ----------
    From:   Duncan Shillito
    Reply To:       [EMAIL PROTECTED]
    Sent:   Wednesday, February 13, 2002 15:58 PM
    To:     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
    Subject:        Re: worked L20B running hot

    chris,

    i use a 3 row commodore cross flow radiator in my 1600 with 2.3L engine and it is fine. it seams to fit OK. i cannot give you any more info as i bought the car with it already fitted.

    take your car to a head shop and get them to do a hydrocarbon test�while the car is running. this will tell�you for sure if there is a leak.�are you using a standard l20b head gasket ??�it seams strange that a new engine is leaking. check for other water leaks by getting a mechanic to pressurize the system (pump air into the top of the rad and check for a pressure�drop).

    dunc.



    >From: "Chris Williams"
    >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
    >To:
    >Subject: Re: worked L20B running hot
    >Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 15:01:25 +1100 (EST)
    >
    >Yep,
    >
    >I have done a Compression test 1.200 2.180 3.200 4.196 so I think it is
    >safe to say she's blown. Well what radiator can I use I read to use a n13
    >pulsar radiator but the in-outlets are on the wrong sides. There must be a
    >bigger radiator I can use with out too many modifications.
    >
    >Chris W
    > >
    > > A couple of points.
    > > When you first fill a radiator from scratch you have to allow the
    > > system to bleed all of the air out from heater, bypasses etc. It
    > > doesn't happen until the thermostat opens and the water level in the
    > > radiator can drop substantially as it replaces the trapped air - just
    > > saying.
    > >
    > > I have my doubts about using a Galant 1600 radiator - the minimum
    > > capacity for a 200B would need to be 9-10 litres, for a hot one? I
    > > think a stock 1600 radiator capacity is 7.5 litres and they can get
    > > stretched by a 200B.
    > >
    > > I'd do the usual blown head gasket tests as suggested all the same.
    > >
    > > regadrs
    > > Terry
    > >
    > >> Chris .
    > >> Sounds like the head gasket is blown if there is no water in the
    > >> radiator. Maybee it also could be the radiatior cap isn't saling
    > >> itself and the water is siphoning out all by itself. Later Rick.
    > >>
    > >> --- "Chris Williams" wrote:
    > >> >Hi,
    > >> > I finaly got my worked L20B in to my 1600 after my fan wrote off
    > >> > one
    > >> >radiator, then next one was blocked, then i found it would cost $260
    > >> >(trade) to recore the blocked one it had the cancer as well. Then i
    > >> >could not find one to fit but then found a chrysler galant ($60) one
    > >> >was almost perfect just had to move the angle of the bottom outlet
    > >> >which cost me $20 so i thought $80 was better then $260. Great I'm
    > >> >driving again so it is fine for a while then it is overheating I
    > >> >check the radiator no water WTF? I have only filled it up half an
    > >> >hour a ago. I wait for it to cool down then fill it back up then
    > >> >driving again temp it about half way but i was told it would run hot
    > >> >anyway. It is fine for an hour then the temp starts to creeap up
    > >> >again so I stop and look then open the radiator after a while and it
    > >> >is steaming and boiling and carrying on ?
    > >> >
    > >> >any ideas the engine is like 300Ks old.
    > >> >
    > >> >Could it just be that the radiator is not big enough?
    > >> >
    > >> >regards
    > >> >
    > >> >Chris W
    > >> >
    > >> >
    > >>
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    > >
    >
    >
    >
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