Hi SWMBA!

The cable to the IP for start/kill is ok, but the connection is wobbly  
at the Ip so it goes off to the side at times and does not fully  
engage kill.  The Knob will pull fully out with key turned or not.   
Might be the cable to the key has gone fully bad and I will be  
spending the rest of the day chasing that.  It would be great if a  
switch could be mounted under dash to just allow power, but then the  
interlock would need to be disengaged.....

Used to be able to turn power off, but keep engine going, and walk  
away with the key.  Now I can not get it to even turn to position 0 or  
1.  Does that "feature" have any relation to the engine shut off?


clay

On Sep 25, 2008, at 11:07 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

>> OH!  That would be really close to the issue.  The off does not work
>> really well on Gump anymore.  I have to push all the way in and hope
>> she shuts off.  When she does not, I pop the clutch and just kill it.
>> Maybe that is not working well anymore and I have to screw around  
>> more.
>
> That problem is usually that the clamp on the IP where the big
> Bowden cable ties to the bracket has slipped.  It can be
> readjusted there.  Probably nothing to do with your problem,
> unless the cable's not actually letting the knob push in all
> the way.
>
>> Used to be able to remove the key while running though.
>
> You're not supposed to be able to.  Just like the interlock works
> the other way to prevent the knob from being pulled until the key
> is turned on.  Naturally, the Frankenheap's knob and key system
> interlock is working perfectly.  :-)  There's a second little Bowden
> cable coming off the side of the pull knob switch that goes over
> to the key switch.  Sounds like Gump's loosening up a bit!
>
> Oh, SWMBA just came in, says hi.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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