If you pay less than $2/lb or pick them yourself you are keeping down
the working apple pickers who need to make a living wage.
--R
andrew strasfogel wrote:
There's a car show in WInchester next weekend and I am realy jonesing for
apples that don't cost $2.00/lb. DO you know of any cost-effective
family-owned PYO orchards?
On Thu, Sep 25, 2008 at 3:16 PM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Thx Andrew,
Did you get thru Winchester by any chance? In late Summer the smell of
fresh apples is overwhelmingly pleasant!
We spent some time in Elkton/Harrisburg area and there's so much history
there it's hard to see it all in a couple of weeks! Oh well, always good
to
save some for next time ;-)
I'll make a note if the places you mentioned and try to include stops at
them.
Take Care,
Larry T
http://youroil.net
http://members.rennlist.org/oil/ - Oil Testing
http://members.rennlist.org/webercarbs/ - Carb & Jet Settings:
----- Original Message -----
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bearing question - W123 300 turbo
Great instructions - thanks.
I recommend Pomme Resaurant (www.restaurantpomme.com) in Gordonsville
and
a
visit to Barboursville Winery. Old Culpeper was charming as well. Can't
recommend our B&B, as the proprietor was a bit too loony and the
breakfast
was strictly self-serve and mostly nonexistent!
On Wed, Sep 24, 2008 at 4:21 PM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi Andrew,
Glad you enjoyed your trip to Va. We live near Petersburg and I'm
planning a trip similar to yours except I hope to take the 911.
Looking
at the 3rd week of Oct. If you could list in general your iteniary I'd
llike
to take a look and consider some of the same places?
As far as F wheel bearings. They typically have a couple of sounds -
one is like a roar that gets louder with speed - I can only describe it
as
a
giant fan spinning making a giant wind noise. You may also feel a
looseness
when going around corners - almost like the wheel is tilting as you
turn.
Replacing the WBs is not a difficult job - jack the front end up and
place securely on jack stands - remove the wheels/tires, remove the 2
bolts
holding the caliper on and hang it to chassis with some wire. Then
remove
the small grease cap and you;ll see the bearing nut and the outer
bearing.
Remove the nut and wiggle the hub off the spindle - the outer bearing
will
fall out so catch it to keep it falling in the dirt. Use a screw
driver
to
remove the inner grease seal (a new one should always be used) & the
inner
WB can then be removed, then, with a long punch placed into the center
of
the hub, feel for the small ledge of the WB race (the solid part of the
WB
that the bearings ride upon) that portrudes into the center of the hub
and
slowly tap the punch and drive the ace out working your way around so it
doesn't become cocked. Keep tapping until the race falls out. When I
say
"tap", it may require more energetic hitting than that implies. Once
done,
flip the hub over and repeat on the inner race.
Before reassembly, get a tube of appropriate grease fom the MB
dealer -
it comes in a tube with exactly enough to do 2 wheels - fold the tube in
half to equally divide it and cut in half - you'll have a container for
each
wheel.
Start the new races (I like to use a piece of wood and a hammer) into
the hub and place grease into the center portion of the hub. Before
putting
the WBs into place, pack grease into all the roller pins (that's the
actual
WBs). Part of the grease goes into the WBs and part into the cap.
There's
a small copper thingie that attaches to the axle to cut down radio
static -
my WB kit came with new ones.(from Rusty).
Slip the bearings into place and snug the nut down. This is where
"feel" comes into play. Tighten it and test the tightness by using
the
tip of a scrrewdriver to move the washer back and forth. A small amount
of
force should be needed but you should not have to really put weight
behind
it. Kind of like the force to move a 10# weight. Too tight will cause
the
WBs to overheat and fail quickly. Next put the caliper (now's a good
time
to replace the brake pads) wheel /tire and you're pretty much done.
Now
you can do the other side ;-)
Now come back and visit Va again - there's a lot to see!
;-) Good luck -
Take Care,
Larry T
http://youroil.net
http://members.rennlist.org/oil/ - Oil Testing
http://members.rennlist.org/webercarbs/ - Carb & Jet Settings:
----- Original Message -----
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <Mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 7:30 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Bearing question - W123 300 turbo
We took our first long trip in the 1983 30TD - from D.C. to
Barboursville
and Gordonsville in the Blue Ridge Piedmont country of Virginia. We
drove
along country lanes and charming little untouched towns, viewing miles
of
lovely open spaces. We visited James Madison's estate - Montpelier -
which
was recently restored and now open to the public. Well worth the $14
admission charge. What was most interesting to me was the amount of
work
they had to do to DEconsruct the mega-additions that the DuPont family
had
put on the original house. Marion DuPont died without heirs, and
willed
the property to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Two
decades
and multiple millions of $$ later, it is now another back to its
original
1850 configuration and a Monticello -like attraction (Jefferson's
estate).
En route, everything worked well with the TD except I was concerned by
noise
that MAY indicate worn bearings. Can someone please describe the
audible
(or other) symptoms of worn front wheel bearings? I haven't had a
problem
with worn bearings for 20 years so have forgotten what the symptoms
are.
Andrew
1983 300TD
318 K miles
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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