Okay so my paranoia about the 190D's diff has subsided a bit, it occurs to me
that smart money would fix my 240D since its potentially less broke. Help me
out here, I've never done front brakes. The rears were wicked easy though...
So I jack it up, pull the wheel, use my big screwdriver to push the pucks back,
drive out the pins that hold the pads, pull the pads, pull the caliper and hang
it on a wire safely out of the way. Pull the dust cap, figure out what holds
the nut on and remove it, remove the nut and pull which should drop the outside
bearing off.
Slide the rotor/hub assembly back in, put the nut back on a little then pull
while feeling for the bearing which should if I'm lucky get the inner bearing
and the seal out. Its okay if I screw up the seal I bought replacements.
Now I put the hub/rotor assembly in the wheel, put a couple bolts in to hold it
together and take the hub off the rotor. Reverse that step and put the new
rotor onto the hub.
Spend some time cleaning everything good. What do I use here? Engine degreaser,
carb cleaner, brake cleaner? Seems like this is also a good time to replace the
frayed brake hose. I'll have to bleed down some brake fluid yeah? Do that now
or wait?
Assuming the grease shows up in time I use one tube per side and 3/4 of it goes
into a ziplock bag with the bearing to get squished in good. If I have to use
Mobil 1 I've got to guess on amounts... The remaining 1/4 of the grease goes
into the cap. Put the inner bearing into the hub, put the seal over it, slide
that onto the spinde, put the outer bearing on, theres probably a washer there
too.
Now is the magic part, need to seat the bearing, so spin the hub/rotor and
tighten to hand tight and just a bit more. Loren says to tighten down and then
back off until I can just detect movement wiggling the rotor back and forth.
Brian T. says to put the wheel back on and spin it and tighten until I can
detect a change in sound. Fred told me another method which I've forgotten,
I'll have to ask him again. I think I'll try both Loren and Brian's techniques
to check myself.
Once the bearing is seated and good I put new pads in the caliper if I haven't
already done so, bolt the caliper back into place. Gently pump the brakes a
little to seat the pads (the guy from Expert Village gave me this one on his
Youtube videos).
Then the same thing on the other side of the car...
I've got a liter of "proper" brake fluid (from Rusty) to flush through. I
figured to buy another liter at FLAPS and run that through first (who knows
when this was done last). IIRC I can just open the taps one at a time and let
gravity pull fluid to flush. IIRC I should start farthest from the MC and move
back, so right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I read somewhere (I
forget now) that I could take a turkey baster and suck the fluid out of the
resevior on top of the MC, then I can pull that resevior off and clean it (mine
looks nasty, everything under the hood on this car is nasty). That seems like a
good idea unless theres a dried out seal or oring under there...
Then I should be ready for a tour around the neighborhood to prove everything
is right and I'm off and truckin.
Comments? Be gentle, I'm not a mechanic, I don't even play one on TV...
If I pull this off I promise to make a video the next time I do it and put 'er
on Youtube for all the other hopeless noobs like me.
-Curt
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