Why are you pulling the rotors and bearings? Why not do the brake job and
drive it until the proper grease arrives? Mean while get more info on the
amount of grease and the proper tools to set the bearings.
Maybe I missed something.
BTW, if you do the work the way you describe how you are going to do it, I
would love for you to work on any of my cars. But not my golf cart, sorry.
Harry
Okay so my paranoia about the 190D's diff has subsided a bit, it occurs to
me that smart money would fix my 240D since its potentially less broke.
Help me out here, I've never done front brakes. The rears were wicked easy
though...
So I jack it up, pull the wheel, use my big screwdriver to push the pucks
back, drive out the pins that hold the pads, pull the pads, pull the
caliper and hang it on a wire safely out of the way. Pull the dust cap,
figure out what holds the nut on and remove it, remove the nut and pull
which should drop the outside bearing off.
Slide the rotor/hub assembly back in, put the nut back on a little then
pull while feeling for the bearing which should if I'm lucky get the inner
bearing and the seal out. Its okay if I screw up the seal I bought
replacements.
Now I put the hub/rotor assembly in the wheel, put a couple bolts in to
hold it together and take the hub off the rotor. Reverse that step and put
the new rotor onto the hub.
Spend some time cleaning everything good. What do I use here? Engine
degreaser, carb cleaner, brake cleaner? Seems like this is also a good
time to replace the frayed brake hose. I'll have to bleed down some brake
fluid yeah? Do that now or wait?
Assuming the grease shows up in time I use one tube per side and 3/4 of it
goes into a ziplock bag with the bearing to get squished in good. If I
have to use Mobil 1 I've got to guess on amounts... The remaining 1/4 of
the grease goes into the cap. Put the inner bearing into the hub, put the
seal over it, slide that onto the spinde, put the outer bearing on, theres
probably a washer there too.
Now is the magic part, need to seat the bearing, so spin the hub/rotor and
tighten to hand tight and just a bit more. Loren says to tighten down and
then back off until I can just detect movement wiggling the rotor back and
forth. Brian T. says to put the wheel back on and spin it and tighten
until I can detect a change in sound. Fred told me another method which
I've forgotten, I'll have to ask him again. I think I'll try both Loren
and Brian's techniques to check myself.
Once the bearing is seated and good I put new pads in the caliper if I
haven't already done so, bolt the caliper back into place. Gently pump the
brakes a little to seat the pads (the guy from Expert Village gave me this
one on his Youtube videos).
Then the same thing on the other side of the car...
I've got a liter of "proper" brake fluid (from Rusty) to flush through. I
figured to buy another liter at FLAPS and run that through first (who
knows when this was done last). IIRC I can just open the taps one at a
time and let gravity pull fluid to flush. IIRC I should start farthest
from the MC and move back, so right rear, left rear, right front, left
front. I read somewhere (I forget now) that I could take a turkey baster
and suck the fluid out of the resevior on top of the MC, then I can pull
that resevior off and clean it (mine looks nasty, everything under the
hood on this car is nasty). That seems like a good idea unless theres a
dried out seal or oring under there...
Then I should be ready for a tour around the neighborhood to prove
everything is right and I'm off and truckin.
Comments? Be gentle, I'm not a mechanic, I don't even play one on TV...
If I pull this off I promise to make a video the next time I do it and put
'er on Youtube for all the other hopeless noobs like me.
-Curt
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
