The real problem is not the ease of removal of pads nor the cost of a new rotor 
vs turning one, it's that once there is a distinct lip on the rotor, the pads 
on the dual piston (not floating piston calipers) will contact the anti-rattle 
spring before the friction material is worn off.  This will result in seriously 
diminished braking, and eventually cause the pistons in the calipers to cock 
and bind.  The brakes then drag, overheat, and roast the rubber dust boot, 
allowing water and dirt into the piston bore, which wrecks the pistons.  A 
routine pad replacement turns into an expensive caliper replacement job 
instead.  On any model between the Finny and the W201, this will happen both 
front and rear, just the rears on later models.

Rotors last three sets of pads -- when the third set is worn out, get new 
rotors.  I routinely get 50,000 miles on a set of pads (I'm lucky -- lost of 
open road driving AND I drive like a little old man, so little wear), so this 
isn't exactly a problem for me.  One set of rotors per car now, so far -- none 
of them have reached the third pad set.  I think the old 300D was getting 
close, but I won't be doing brake work on that one any more.

Peter
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Cathey <j...@windwireless.net>
>Sent: Sep 15, 2009 9:38 AM
>To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Brake Rotor rant
>
>> I don't turn a rotor to remove an edge. Mount it on a drive wheel and 
>> spin slowly while I use a 4" disc grinder to remove the edge.
>
>That's what I do.  Makes getting the calipers on and off
>much easier!
>
>-- Jim
>
>
>
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