You need to loosen the clamp on the cable jacket at the IP, and slide
the jacket toward the firewall enough so that it will hit the start
position. Probably 2-4 mm as a guess. THat is the primary adjustment.
As for glow, I have several times installed a secondary glow or
starter switch. Take a ford fender mounted starter relay. (fairly
easy to find at the junkyards 20 years ago. Not sure if they still
use them, but I think so) Run a #10 wire (or fusable link) from the
battery to the relay (mounted on the rear of the engine or on the
firewall) large terminal (left, facing the two small terminals) From
the right large terminal, run a #10 wire to the (hot) terminal of the
glow resistor if you have loop glow plugs. (on a newer car, or one
converted to pencil glow plugs, it goes to the terminal of the last GP)
Then run a wire from any suitable hot fused terminal (31, switched)
to a pushbutton (NO) mounted under the dash, then back to the new
starter relay left small terminal. (single small terminal if your
relay has only one small terminal. In that case, the mounting of the
relay is expected to provide a ground for the pilot circuit.) From
the second small terminal, run a wire to a good ground.
If/when you have doubts about the glow switch working, you can try
the secondary circuit. It it starts from that one, you know you have
a problem in the glow switch circuit.
My escort Diesel developed a problem in the switch/relay. Rather
than spend days tracking down an intermittent problem in the winter.
I rigged up the push button circuit in a mcparts lot when it was 20
below. It only took me 30 min or so, and I did all the wiring I
could inside the idling car. Then I went out and installed it. Not
fun at 20 below. Much better than spending days trying to fix an
intermittent.
You can hear the relay engage.
I've also used a secondary pushbutton circuit to troubleshoot starter
switch/starter solenoid problems. for that, you don't need the
relay, just the pushbutton pilot circuit.
At 05:18 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
Gump is being a turd. The start cable fell off the IP while I was
out with flu and oldest boy drove. He was not aware the cable had
come detached and had trouble starting, but it would eventually light
off.
I found out the cable was off, and proceeded to hook it back to the IP
and now it is not willing to start when the knob gets pulled. It will
go to glow, but I am not able to pull it further so that it engages
the start circuit. I did learn that the knob mechanism is a three
part system. It first opens the fuel flow, then moves to engage the
glow system. Final position is to engage the starter.
What would work better would be a simple manual glow switch, and a
push to start button. Probably pain in the rear to figure out the way
to cut into the circuits.
Anybody have advise on how to get Gump lit off?
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
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Loren Faeth
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