John, Thanks for that tip, I had thought about it but didn't know if I should do that or not. What is used for the re-coat?
-Max -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Reames Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:34 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide I used a paint stripper You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic resin, which is hygroscopic. Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't get contaminated) You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in there. I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years later when the car got totalled. I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp... -- John W Reames [email protected] Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310" <[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip > off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your > wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, > the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better > iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 > watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. > > One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the > integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did > a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much > heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the > components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? > > Thanks, > Max > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide > > Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC > actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in > spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it > might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up > with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do > the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing > (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off > corrosion that might prevent good contact. > > -- Jim > > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives > http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives > http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
