I'd reccomend using a 63/37 alloy instead of 60/40... It is a eutectic slloy, so it doesn't have a temperature range where it is "plastic"... Making it very difficult to get a bum joint because of movement. (It also has a slightly lower melting temperature...)

--
John W Reames
[email protected]
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Mar 24, 2010, at 22:42, Fmiser <[email protected]> wrote:

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

Thanks for your write-up and advice.  What is the best way to
strip off the varnish?  I didn't notice any corrosion, but
will keep your wire brush tip in mind.  I have an ancient
home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this
work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a
model?

The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part
number 21-8125
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125    $6.19

They also carry my favorite solder.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-2280   1 lb $20.99

While your at it, you can get a decent little stand with a
tip-cleaning sponge.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8165   $5.09

One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the
integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY
approach.  I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty
confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint.
Do you think any of the components on this board are
especially sensitive to heat?

No, they are pretty big, heavy components.  Sure, they can still
be cooked, but watch the solder flow and don't heat longer than
necessary and you will probably be just fine.

--   Philip

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