On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 23:17:43 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Craig,
> 
> The schematic is not a real schematic as it does not show any of the 
> grounds.  The field resister ends at the case of the LHDB switch, and 
> that is chassis ground.  The text of the other link explains this.

I see.


> a) Disconnect the v-belt and wires, run power to the armature post 
> and ground the field post. The generator should now spin and act as a 
> motor, disrupting the field/ground circuit should make the speed go 
> up. Mine spins like a motor but if there is a speed increase it's 
> very very small.

I don't see how the speed would go up with the field winding not
connected.


> b) Disconnect all wires, run the engine. Connect a voltage gauge 
> across Armature and ground and then ground the Field post.
> Voltage should now be linear to the engine speed and show up to 40 
> volts. Mine shows nothing.


> Measuring the resistance across the field coils shows abt 10 ohms and 
> measuring the coils on some spare housings shows abt the same 
> resistance.

Then at least it's not open.


> Looks like motorizing would be an easy test., although the post above 
> sounds like + to A and - to F and your description sounds opposite, 
> although neither is specific.  

I think I said something confusing by saying, "Hook the field up so it is
powered by the battery ..."

What I meant was to get the battery powering the field winding in the
normal polarity. With a positive ground system, it sounds like negative
battery terminal to armature terminal to power armature and field winding
(which apparently has its other end connected to the armature terminal),
and positive terminal (ground) to the field terminal.


> It is is like most DC motors, the only difference is CW or CCW
> rotation, based on polarity.

Yes, that is true, but you want the correct polarity. You don't want the
generator putting out +6 volts when the battery wants -6 volts.


Craig

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