In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of pedal travel, conversely 
it engages in the last 1/8th of pedal travel (on the way UP) so my theory is 
the rod is too long which fits with what you're saying except my results are 
opposite of what you thought.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:41:57 -0500
From: Fmiser <fmi...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: <20110928204157.0365a9e6.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

> Curt Raymond wrote:

> Huh?
>
> I thought the rod I have is too long... My theory is that too
> long a rod would run the MC farther along than it should and
> aww hell I dunno, the old rod was shorter...
>
> See my other message about the shim. Looks like if I hadn't
> touched the slave I wouldn't be in this mess.

Gee - I dunno either.

I don't trust my memory of the details.  But if the shims are
doing something, then it is something. *weak smile*

My reconstruction from the results.

* I swapped in the master cylinder from one of the parts
   cars.

* The system would not bleed.

* The system will only bleed when the piston in the master
   cylinder is _all_ the way at the top.

* Since it wouldn't bleed because the piston was not all the
   way up, and the piston is depressed by a rod between the
   pedal and the piston, then the rod must have been too long.

* I swapped in the rod from the same car the master cylinder
   came from and all was well.

* I have a picture of a rod that I took after the job was
   done, therefore the photos must be of the long rod I am not
   using.

* If you have a rod that's too short, then when you step on
   the pedal your foot will have to move further than
   originally planned before the piston moves - which I think
   describes your situation.

Logical - no?

Doesn't mean it's right...

--     Philip

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