All good points. Thanks.
Kind of follows my thinking as well, $500 could be a fair price as it sets.
Things start adding up fast. ie. tow bill to start, shop time on a lift just
to do to triage the bottom side, certainly will have to open the trans. Then
better than fair chance a rebuild is in the works.
Absolutely must have a set of tires,, the set on the car are "Arizona dead"
[the heat here sucks the rubber dry and they crack and crumble, just before
they explode].

I'm a new guy here on this board, so Rusty,,,, got a rebuild?  How much do I
need to steal from the kids college fund to buy one?

Grant...
AZ..

On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 6:20 AM, Max Dillon <meadedil...@bellsouth.net>wrote:

> Problem is you can't evaluate the car fully.  Suspension might be shot,
> differential may howl, rear axles knock, AC dies after 10 minutes, cruise
> control, steering play, etc.
>
> $500 tops, and that is being generous.
> --
> Max,
> Charleston SC
>
> Allan Streib <str...@cs.indiana.edu> wrote:
>
> >Fmiser <fmi...@gmail.com> writes:
> >
> >> Honestly - for a car that need work to be able to drive I would
> >> consider $1000 to be a top price.
> >
> >Yeah, it sounds like the pretty easy/cheap B2 repair is what you need,
> >but who knows?  Assume you might need to buy a rebuild from Rusty
> >(unless you have the tools/skills to do a proper rebuild yourself) and
> >factor that in to your price/bargaining.
> >
> >--
> >1983 300D
> >1979 300SD
> >
> >_______________________________________
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> >
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>
> _______________________________________
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