Basin wrench or a pair of vise grips

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 8, 2012, at 17:15, Dimitri Seretakis <dsereta...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Not yet. Thanks for asking! I have the primer pump but haven't replaced it 
> yet. I've been focusing on a lower priority rust repair and now I need to 
> find a driver's side window as it's starting to get cold!
> The old pump looks like a PITA to remove. Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 8, 2012, at 4:19 PM, "Max Dillon" <meadedil...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> 
> Dimitri,
> 
> Did you ever get this resolved?  I think when we left off, you were going to
> replace the manual primer pump?
> 
> -Max
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2012 8:35 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Old injectors are fine. Now what?!
> 
> Thanks! That will prove helpful. I have more troubleshooting to do on this
> car after ChowdahQ.
> In the meanwhile I adjusted the valves-they were way off! Strangely, all the
> exhaust valves had too much clearance and a couple of intakes were tight. I
> was under the impression that the exhaust valve clearances usually tighten
> with time? Anyway, the car drives a lot better. The idle is still a bit
> rough and it stumbles slightly in second gear while approaching 40mph.
> Something is still amiss. Compression test next. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 5, 2012, at 3:57 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Depends on how clean the lines and top of the IP are.  You want everything
> clean enough for surgery first.  No lint, dust, etc.
> 
> I'd say 1-2 hours.  Remove the lines (you have already done that.
> Remove the DV locks (screwdriver or torx) If you have the splined DVs, then
> you need the special socket.  If the DVs are not too torqued,  you sometimes
> can remove them with the splined lock with a wrench on the tab.  This has
> never worked for me, and you really need the socket to get the right torque
> on reassembly.
> Remove the DV holders and keep in order, or I do one at a time.
> Use a pick to pull out the old copper seal.  Inspect...  find a culprit?
> (best to determine the weak cyl first.) put in a new copper seal, clean the
> DV holder, put on a new oring.
> use a new spring and replace DV holder
> Follow specs for tightening procedure and final torque.
> 
> So is this DV repair pretty straighforward? How long of a job?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 5, 2012, at 12:57 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Probably nothing to worry about.  I remember freaking out about a similar
> situation, a wet hole, but it was ok when I put everything back together.
> 
> If compression is good, then order DV seals (copper) and DV springs and DV
> orings.  Rusty has em, but I can look up the part numbers if he can't find
> them.  I ALWAYS order extra orings and seals.  The copper seal is a one-time
> use, and generally if you pull a DV back out, the oring is cut from the
> threads too.  A weak DV spring will act the same as a leaky DV seal.  rough
> idle.
> 
> I'd order 4 springs and 5 or 6 orings and copper seals.  There is always one
> I want to do over.  Follow the proper procedure for seating the DV seal and
> the proper torque.
> 
> 
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> 
> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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