Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it? Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 27, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net> wrote: > You should inspect the rails now - - if there are grooves worn in them, they > need to be replaced. Put them in when you do the new chain. > > A chain breaking/swaging tool is nice, but not absolutely necessary. > > If you can fish one up, there is a bracket to bolts over the cam sprocket > that holds the chain on both sides and is open on the top, this makes putting > a new one in very easy. > > If you don't have the tool, what you want to do is remove the chain tensioner > and upper chain guide on the injection pump side. Wire tie the chain to both > sides of the cam, then grind off the rivet head on one link at the top. > > Drive the link out the back, watch you don't drop the center piece into the > crankcase. > > Use the new link you bought (usually NOT in the box with the new chain) to > attach the new chain to the old one on the side that will pull into the chain > cover when you rotate the engine in the normal direction. I think that's the > driver's side, but make sure, I get things backwards (dyslexia is great, you > get to make all sorts of unexpected trips when you turn the wrong way....). > > Hook some wire (clothes hanger, mechanics wire, etc) to the other side and > keep tension on the chain and the links on the sprocket at all times. > > You can then walk the chain in by turning the engine a bit, adding a new wire > tie on each side, and cutting the old one. Vise grips work too, but make > sure you don't hang them up on the cam towers, etc. > > If you have a helper , you can hold the chain in place manually -- with the > fancy tool, the chain is held by the tool and all you have to do is feed it > in and "help" the old chain out of the way. > > Once you get the new chain all the way in, take off the old one and install > the new link in the ends of the new chain, which must be sitting on the > sprocket next to each other. Don't forget the center link. > > Swage the chain with the fancy tool, or just back up the link with a steel > block and use a hammer to peen over the ends of the new link. > > Check cam timing! You can't screw up the crank to injection timer unless you > take out the retainer bolt down by the injection pump, but you can jump the > cam a tooth fairly easily. > > When I pulled a new chain into the 220D, I dropped the old chain twice and > had to make a tool to fish it out from brazing rod, which is why I recommend > a wire "handle" -- harder to lose control of it and much easier to pull back > up. > > I did my alone, it's easier with two people, but my brother and I still > managed to jump the chain on the cam one tooth on his SDL. > > Peter > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
