Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It
keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled
to feed it through and keep things taught?
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 27, 2012, at 11:22 PM, Craig <diese...@pisquared.net> wrote:
> On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 22:11:52 -0600 OK Don <okd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't
>> replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I
>> followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I
>> used three pieces of 12 ga. house wire to tie the chain to the cam
>> sprocket
>> - keeping two on it at all times.
>> Yes, it is slow to rotate a bit, move wire ties, rotate a bit, etc. till
>> it's all done, but better than the anxiety when the cam jumps a tooth ot
>> two, and you're not even sure which way, it's so fast. (BTDT) I was
>> lucky, the engine would not turn over once a piston hit the valve while
>> turning the engine by hand - guessed the right direction, moved the
>> chain one link, and it ran fine for the next 100,000+ miles.
>
> I really must have been fortunate when I changed the timing chain on our
> '64 190Dc (OM621 or OM636) with no special tools and not much in the way
> of instructions other than the Chilton manual and had no difficulties.
>
>
> Craig
>
> P.S. Below are old emails on the subject. I sent a copy of the picture of
> the chain link tool mentioned in the second email to the list
> tonight. So, whenever Kaleb approves it ...
>
> ========================================================
>
> From: jfre...@aol.com
> To: merce...@striplin.net
> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <merce...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 02:15:44 EST
> Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net
> X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 2340
>
>
> In a message dated 11/9/2005 6:15:19 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> t...@brdgstn.com writes:
>
> Contemplaing doing timing chain overdue at 270K miles. I have been
> doing some research. It appears a chain buddy;, ie standby helper is
> required. Can this job be done totally solo? I have not met any of my
> neighbors or friends/wifes/kids or enemies who gives a rats a-- for my
> 77 300D or would be worthy or interested in helping.
>
>
>
> Tom,
>
> I have done 3 chains solo, and never dropped a link. The most recent
> was the easiest, due to a tip from one of the listers. I tied the end
> of a long bungee cord overhead and used that to take up the old chain.
> You tie it offset from center of the car, and not too high, so that the
> new chain always is pulled over the cam gear. My basket ball pole was
> handy and I used that. This frees up you to turn the crank and watch the
> new chain feed in. Figure on moving the bungee hook in the chain about
> 4 times so you don't have to stretch it too tight.
>
> Two caveats.
>
> You MUST relieve cranking pressure by pulling the glow plugs (my choice)
> or the injectors. The new chain goes in so much easier, and there is no
> chance of an accidental power stroke.
>
> Before you break the chain, you should always tie the chain ends to the
> cam gear so that if anything goes wrong you still have your timing.
> Also make sure that the service link picks up all the link plates on both
> chains or one will fold back and the result will block the chain from
> clearing the crank gear as clearance is very tight there. Once you have
> the new chain attached to the old chain, and tension on the old chain
> with the bungee, you can cut the ties. Same deal when you are done and
> ready to splice the chain--tie those ends down! Do not trust your grip
> in this oily environment!
> On many models you must remove the chain tensioner, because they have a
> stepping mechanism in them that takes up the slack as the chain wears.
> You cannot push this kind back. I like this kind the best because they do
> not rattle when the engine is first started. Many install a new
> tensioner with any new chain job. It is certain that you will see heavy
> spring wear on your old one, should you take the piston out to reload it
>
> Good luck, you can do this!
>
> Jim Friesen
> Phoenix AZ
> 79 300SD, 261 K miles
> 98 ML 320, 138 K miles
>
> =====================================================
>
> From: Loren Faeth <lfa...@leadingchange.com>
> To: Mercedes mailing list <merce...@striplin.net>
> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <merce...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 11:36:27 -0600
> Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net
> X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.2.0.14
>
> I've always done the chain solo. I like to tie or vicegrip the chain to
> the cam sprocket before breaking a link. I also tie a small wire to each
> side of the chain before i break it. I have learned to stuff rags in the
> chaincase cavity in case you DO drop something. (Need to pull the rags
> out before you actually roll in the new chain.) I once dropped the
> center link down a OM621. It wedged between the teeth of the crank
> sprocket. I ended up having to take the engine out and flip it over and
> pull the pan. Ruined my day! That was probably about the 5th chain i
> replaced, and i got sloppy. Never hurry or get sloppy messing with the
> chain.
>
> Many years ago i acquired a medical locking forceps that has relief
> behind the jaws. I can lock it on one side of the chain, then if i drop
> it, the forceps keeps it from going too far, and gives me a handle to
> pick it up with. We have far more IT geeks on this list than medicos, so
> a tool like this is probably not available to most of us.
>
> Pull the plugs or injectors to get the engine to turn freely. On the
> 621, 615-617 I might pull the cam followers also, so the cam doesn't
> jump, but this is not necessary if you are careful. If my memory is
> correct, the cam jumping was what caused me to loose the piece of link
> into the guts of the
> 621. (this is a good time to get the nozzles tested!) Generally, if it
> needs a chain, it needs nozzles. ~300k for OM 60x id guess. I did this
> to my 603 at 300K
>
> I still prefer the repair link to the riveted link. As long as you put
> it together right they never come off. You have to get the spring keeper
> in just right, and check it.
>
> I really like the bungie cord trick! Learned something new!
>
> Loren
> Changed lotsa 621 chains
> one 616 chain
> one 603 chain
>
>
> At 09:34 AM 11/10/2005, you wrote:
>> before doing this because of mileage you should check it for stetch - put
>> the crank on TDC, remove the cam cover and check the cam washer - it has
>> a V cut into it that should align with the mark on the cam tower - it'll
>> be off some if stretched - the amount is measured in degrees - I believe
>> over 5 d indicates need for change.
>>
>> As preventive maintanence you might consider changing the tensioner also
>> --
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)
>> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
>> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Fmiser" <fmi...@gmail.com>
>> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <merce...@striplin.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 2:01 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D timing chain replacement
>>
>>
>>> rumor has it that Tom wrote:
>>>
>>>> Contemplaing doing timing chain overdue at 270K miles. I have been
>>>> doing some research. It appears a chain buddy;, ie standby helper
>>>> is required. Can this job be done totally solo? I have not met any
>>>> of my neighbors or friends/wifes/kids or enemies who gives a rats
>>>> a-- for my 77 300D or would
>>>> be worthy or interested in helping.
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts please. Can it be done solo? Thanks
>>>> Regards Tom Scordato, Bellefonte PA
>>>
>>> I did it solo - about 5 times.
>>>
>>> The chain that came out of the box was too short. (!!!???!!??)
>>>
>>> So I was _sure_ I did something wrong.
>>>
>>> New chain in/old chain out; old in/new out; new in/old out, dropped
>>> end down inside. *sigh*
>>>
>>> Recovered chain end, installed old chain, removed injector pump,
>>> replaced oil pan, ordered a _correct_ chain from Rusty.
>>>
>>> Then - newer chain in/old chain out.
>>>
>>> Piece of cake!
>>>
>>> Just be sure you have the right size replacement chain (136 links),
>>> and never drop it down inside!!
>>>
>>> I did make a handy device to help me guide the new chain in, the old
>>> chain out, and keep both of them in firm contact with the cam gear -
>>> with one hand. The other hand could then work the rachet on the power
>>> steering pump nut to turn the engine.
>>>
>>> I've attached a photo. Sorry, archive...
>>>
>>> Philip,
>
> ===========================================================
>
> From: Mathieu J. Cama <c...@oldworldauto.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <merce...@striplin.net>
> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <merce...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] timing chain temp link
> Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 13:45:49 -0400
> Sender: mercedes-boun...@striplin.net
> X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.623)
>
> Order a master clip for an m100 car (p/n 0009970598). It will work just
> fine. Also, I place many rags in the chain cavity so that if something
> should fall, it will land on the rag or fall outside of the motor. This
> is critical to do when grinding/breaking the old chain as well as
> covering the cam and other open and sensitive areas. Follow the
> instructions posted on Dieselgiant's web site. That tutorial was
> photographed at my shop.
>
> Mathieu
> www.oldworldauto.com
>
>
> On Apr 13, 2006, at 1:27 PM, Richard Hattaway wrote:
>
>> I have one from an old chain, back in the days when it was supplied as
>> part of the replacement. I got it from a real old timer, and I am an
>> old timer too. So mine's pretty old. And worn. But it works.
>>
>> You need to find a benevolent old timer. I will put you in my will,
>> you can have mine when I die. (c: ( may not be too far off (c: )
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> PS, loosing the bits down a hole is the reason you own one of those
>> super magnet screwdrivers from Autozone. Bitty magnet, lotsa power.
>> It will lift a whole timing chain by the end. Long story, good ending
>> (c:
>>
>>
>>
>> --- Van Cleve <fidle...@olympus.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Where does one get one of these temporary "clip" links. I have done
>>> several
>>> T chains and its a PIA to do and undo the regular master link. I
>>> remember a
>>> post sometime back about using a clip style master link from some
>>> other
>>> model (other than a 617/6) for pulling the chain through. I assume
>>> Rusty
>>> would have the link if I knew what to ask for. One could spoil the
>>> day by
>>> losing all or part of a clip down the hole :'(
>
> ====================================================
>
> _______________________________________
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