Two things come to mind, but neither might be related - you get what you
pay for!

1 - I bought a '76 300D once for the rust free NV body because the PO
thought the engine needed to be rebuilt because it was hard to start. I
found my 10,000 mile factory crate engine hard to start once transplanted
from the rusted out body to this one. I found a spot where the steel line
from the tank turns upward in the engine compartment that had rubbed
against the frame and worn a small hole. Cut the line there, spliced it
with a short piece of fuel hose, and never had any trouble starting the car
again (until the start died that is). The downside to this explanation is
that the car ran great once it was started, it just lost the prime and took
forever to get enough fuel to the IP to start, so this is probably not your
problem, though I'd look at every inch of the fuel delivery (and return)
path.

2 - is the vent for the fuel tank clear? No air in, no fuel out. They can
become clogged and cause all kinds of hard to diagnose trouble.


-- 
OK Don
"They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775
"in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes."
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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