On 03/12/2013 12:05 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
Except that it took SO LONG when it was cold, and if one plug burnt
out,
they were all dead - series wiring. I was really glad to get a car with
the new style plugs.
Alligator clip jumper over the bad one, and go on?
Well, that was a problem with the series plugs somewhat independent of
the way they were actuated. Most of the battery's energy was
converted to
heat OUTSIDE the cylinder head, where you don't need it.
A bit more than half. If only they'd put the toaster rack inside
the air cleaner or intake manifold.
Oh for a MANUAL heating/cooling system like the one on our W115: direct
warm air to the feet, if it gets too warm topside, open the center vent
for cool air, vary both levers as needed. I have wondered if I could
modify the automatic controller to allow that kind of flexibility.
Tres easy to cause the center vents to open, on many systems
those can't be heated. (On the 123 heat comes out of them if
they're open.) But they'd be on full blast. Maybe you
could retrofit the manual flap lever? Would be a bit of
a project.
-- Jim
So, if we suspect a bad glow plug and want to use the alligator clip
method suggested above, is there an easy quick way to determine which
glow plug has gone bad?
Randy
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