that's a good one for the files section of your website Kaleb.... ----- Original Message ---- From: Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 7:06:25 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] size of fuel sending unit
thanks dude. Marshall Booth wrote: > Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > >>I just bought one at autozone, 1 7/8 I think was the size, it worked >>well but was 10 bucks for 1 socket. Next question, how do you remove the >>outer tube part to clean up the inside? > > > Here's EVERYTHING I know about it: > > >>Tools Needed: >> >>1-13/16" socket >> >>8mm socket or wrench to remove seat back bolts >>Lots of clean shop towels or rags. >> >>Plenty of room around car for seat bottom and back to clear doors while >>removing. >> >>Fuel tank as low as you dare to go with it. >> >>Procedure: >> >>1.) Remove rear seat bottom by releasing 2 red clips on forward bottom edge >>of seat frame. Pull to one side on the clips while lifting up - you'll feel >>the seat frame come up as soon as they release. Lift up on the forward part >>of the seat bottom and pull towards the front of the car. Carefully remove >>seat bottom from car. >> >>2.) In the center of the seat back below the armrest is an 8mm screw. Remove >>it. On either side at the lower corners of the seat back are metal brackets >>with 8mm screws in them. Remove these as well. Climb into the center of the >>back seat area and lift the seat back straight up. There's a metal lip on >>the back of the seat that hooks on two "ridges" just below the parcel shelf. >>Lift the seat back off of these and carefully set it down in the back of the >>car. >>CAUTION: Use two people for the next step!! >> >>3.) With another person's help lift the seat back and remove it from the >>car. Why two people? Because if you try to do this yourself the seatback is >>too heavy. You'll end up dragging one of the corner brackets across the top >>of the wheel well or somewhere else around the door area. I have the scars >>to show for it. Now is a good time to apply some Leatherique to the seat >>back and bottom while you have the whole thing out. >> >>4.) After wading through the spare change, candy, Cheetos, etc, you'll find >>some black insulating/sound deadening material draped down the back of the >>seating area. On the left rear (driver's side) there will be a cut-out just >>below the parcel shelf. Carefully pull this portion back. underneath is a >>large (3"-4") diameter plastic plug. Pry it out of the opening it seals. >> >>5.) You are now looking at the top of the guage sender. Carefully remove the >>electrical connector and move it out of the way. Place your socket on top of >>the sender and turn it counterclockwise. Once unscrewed all the way, get >>ready with some shop rags/towels. >> >>6.) Carefully and SLOWLY lift the sender assembly out of the hole. As you >>lift, fuel will be draining out of the cylinder. There are two holes in the >>side, one near the top, another near the bottom, with still a third in the >>base. Look down into the tank as you get close to the bottom of the sender >>or listen carefully to tell when the fuel has stopped draining from the >>sender. Have some towels or rags ready, as when you remove the sender from >>teh tank there will still be fuel dripping from it. Be patient! Too many of >>us have pulled the sender out prematurely and gotten baptized with #2 >>diesel. Yuck! Take the sender to a clean work area where you can disassemble >>it and lay the parts out. >> >>7.) Start by wiping the outside of the sender with a clean towel. You'll be >>amazed at the nasty black stuff all over. get used to it -you're going to >>see more . . . On the bottom of the cylinder is a small round "nut". >>Carefully >>unscrew this with a pair of pliers and put it aside. Gently twist on the >>bottom of the sender and it will start to come apart. Be prepared for more >>fuel! Here's what you will >>find: >> >>A.) Flat metal disc that covers the bottom of the plastic plate and acts as >>the "floor" for >>the maze. >> >>B.) Plastic disc that is the closure plate for the bottom. Lots of >>convoluted grooves in it, like a little maze. Make sure these are cleaned >>out, as they act as a damper for fuel to flow in and out of the sender >>cylinder. >> >>C.) Outer tube of the sender. Two small holes in the side, both should be >>open and unclogged. These allow fuel to flow in and out of the sender so the >>float will register properly. The inside will be messy as well. Clean it. I >>pass paper towels (or better yet, a non-fuzzy shop rag) through it. >> >>D.) Sender float and guide rod/wires. Here's where the fun begins >> >>8.) Clean all the individual pieces, saving the float/guide rod assembly for >>last. You can use any number of solvents for this, just use them in >>accordance with proper safety practices. >> >>9.) Take the float/guide rod assembly and carefully clean it, using a cotton >>swab or something appropriate. Handle it carefully, as the fine copper wires >>on the sides are very important as you will discover! On the bottom is a >>disk that lines up with two copper "arms" on the float. This is your low >>fuel light circuit. Make sure the contact on both the float and the disk are >>clean. You can burnish them with some emery cloth if necessary, as they will >>probably be pretty nasty. I like to use electrical contact cleaner to clean >>the low fuel contacts as well as the wipers and wires on the float. >> >>10.) You may find one of the fine copper wires is broken, which will account >>for no low fuel light. If this is the case you can resolder the wire using a >>low wattage soldering iron and the correct solder (60-40 electronic solder >>form someplace like Radio Shack.) It has been my experience that the wires >>typically break at the connection point where the original solder joint was, >>so no patching is necessary. >> >>11.) Now that you're done, carefully reassemble the pieces, paying close >>attention to the placement of the plastic end cap and metal disk. Once you >>have the sender reassembled don't place it in the tank - plug it into the >>harness and use a jumper clip (wire with alligator clips on both ends) to >>ground it. Turn on your ignition to see if you have your low fuel level >>light lit. >> >>12.) After this test, remove the connector, carefully replace the sender in >>the tank, remembering to put the sealing ring on it, and tighten with the >>socket. No need for >>brute force here, just make sure the sealing ring is slightly compressed. >> >>13.) Replace rear seat and related goodies >> >>14.) Get a cold beverage of your choice and enjoy a snack from the remnants >>that lie under the rear seat! Ahh! Life is good! >> >><unsnip> >> >>Dan "Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration" Penoff > > > Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net _______________________________________ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
