I know, I was embarrassed to have to bring it but I forgot the 20 at camp...
-Curt
From: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
To: Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>; Mercedes Discussion List
<mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
A 12 ton jack is a small tool.
RB
On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
> Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I
> think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except
> driving nails.
> Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking
> tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you
> don't use small tools.
> -Curt
> From: Curly McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> Cc: Curly McLain <126die...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
>
> 2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball
> joints, etc. Mine is maybe 12" over all, so it is easier to
> maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.
>
> TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
> the yoke while applying pressure. I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
> and they popped right out. Had to do this 2-3 times recently.
>
> Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.
>
>
>> I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
>> gotten lucky.
>>
>> This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
>> I really like it. Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
>> holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
>> torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
>> the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.
>>
>> Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
>> I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
>> car, then measure / adjust the toe-in. Another way would be to make two
>> parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
>> Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.
>>
>> -------------
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I've never had the tool. I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
>>> with a short handle 2 pounder. That is done from the bottom, so no
>>> clearance problems Clarence.
>>>
>>> If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
>>> gone now, so I just use the LFH.
>>>
>>> You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade
>>>caliper
>>> works better. I've never made the homemade caliper.
>>>
>>>
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>
>
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