Rings or clings? ;<)
Wilton
----- Original Message -----
From: "G Mann via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: "G Mann" <g2ma...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 26, 2015 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] sharpening knives??
I use 3M Wet or Dry Carborundum sand paper on a glass sheet.
8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 320 grit cut in 1/2 , so you are working with a 1/2
sheet. Spray bottle of water to wet the glass and the 1/2 sheet of paper
rings to the surface.
Glass is very flat so it gives me a clear surface to work from. I then
spray the "grit" surface of the sheet and stroke the knife at the proper
sharpening angle.
As the sheet becomes less "sharp" and stops cutting, I rotate the
sandpaper
to a new area and keep sharpening the knife. Respray with water as
necessary.. You may find it helpful to remove the sandpaper and wash it
under a stream of water to remove the broken grit pieces and "grindings"
from the knife, which refreshes it.
When the paper becomes dull, use the other half. Repeat as necessary, for
the rest of the knives in the group... This is the first cut.
Next, shift to 380 grit... repeat...
Then 400 grit.. repeat..
I like to finish off with the use of a ceramic rod, which is, I believe,
about 800 grit.
This gives a fine finish to the cutting edge which is truly razor sharp.
Through all the above, listen to the sound of the knife as you stroke it
through the sharpening cut. If you have the right angle and the right
"stroke" you will hear a repeatable sound of the knife against the
sharpening material across it's length, regardless of whether it is a long
or a short knife. Find that "sweet spot sound" and you will make sharp
knives quickly. When done right, it will be a smooth fluid motion that
traverses the full blade from butt to tip at the cutting edge angle.
I also like to place the glass plate on a towel which keeps it from
slipping on the work table, and I place the edge of the glass at the edge
of the table which gives me full sweep with the knife handle and lets me
control the edge angle [which is what you are sharpening].
It is my experience that most women and few men have ever been taught
proper sharp knife care and handling.. so if you are brave enough, explain
to the cooks
that a sharp knife NEVER cuts into a hard surface, like a metal pan, or a
tile counter, and ALWAYS to protect the sharp edge.. That a sharp knife
laying open in a drawer will always become a dull knife. They should
ALWAYS
be hand washed, not banged around in the dishwasher with other dull
utensils. AND,, when placing a sharp knife in the knife rack.. always put
it with the back of the knife down [upside down] which further protects
the
sharp edge.
If you are restoring a badly abused knife, I suggest the use of a fine cut
mill bastard file, to start the process of re-making the edge angles. I
have restored many knives which were considered lost after gross miss
handling by people who thought they should be used as pry bars or can
openers. Some required reshaping the points with a hammer and anvil to
straighten them first. Then refiling the blade profile, followed by the
sharpening procedure above.
HTH,
Grant...
"A man who can't keep his wife's axe sharp isn't worth a flip"
On Thu, Nov 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
I use waterstones. Takes forever to get a decent edge on German
stainless....
Peter
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