Thassa keeper! Thanks Philip (for all of us)
fmiser via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 13, 2017 at 9:57 PM
Kyle wrote:
Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado.
I will let you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
Seems like an appropriate time to post my replacement procedure.
Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground. Full disclosure - I've done it a few (too
many) times. And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft
immediately began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.
Here's my procedure
* Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil. It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
fill plug can be opened before you drain. The higher the
back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
drain plugs.
* While the oil is draining:
- take off the wheel(s)
- take off the brake caliper. Yes, it really does need to
come off. I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
always had to take it off. Don't let the caliper hang
by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
than necessary.
- remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
in the hub. I have never used a tool like the manual
shows. Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.
* Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
to working height. I like to have the lower shock mount
about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor. I get it this
high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
high.
* Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
called the "differential jack") and remove the four bolts
that hold the differential mount to the frame.
* Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
top bolts much easier. This part is especially tricky on a
wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
valve conspire to get in the way. Lowering the
differential changes "impossible" to merely "challenging".
The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
is removed.
* Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft. I have a piece
of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees. The bent
end fits into the hole in the retainer clip. I grip the
other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
the retainer clip.
* With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.
* Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
differential.
Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.
* First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
on the replacement axle shaft. I lightly grease the axle
shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
together more easily.
* Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
differential.
* Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.
* With the differential jack lower the differential.
* Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.
* Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
spec.
* Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
spec.
* Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.
* Put the brake caliper back on.
* Put the wheel on.
* Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.
* Remove the differential jack.
* Lower the car to the ground.
Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.
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Kyle Arola via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 13, 2017 at 3:12 PM
Ordered a set, both sides and homokenitic, from CJV in Colorado. I
will let
you know how they are doing in 5 years or so...
The other company I was looking at is still manufactured in Asia...
Kyle
On Jan 13, 2017 2:32 PM, "Mountain Man via Mercedes"
<mercedes@okiebenz.com>
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Mountain Man via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 13, 2017 at 1:31 PM
Isn't there a guy in Carolina that rebuilds these? He did it
properly, as I recall. The lube inside the boot obtainable from
dealer is liquid, not grease.
?anyone?
tin-man
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Kyle Arola via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 13, 2017 at 11:58 AM
So I read that the OEM part was manufactured by GKN Drivetech. I can get
those from Amazon for $400 with free shipping, or here for $380. I know
for a fact that the passenger side is the annular type
http://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?mercedes~benz/1985/300td/base/3.0l-l5/allb/driveline-and-axles/cv-components/cv-axle-assembly/pagenum1/tabs
I am not trying to start a flame war, but if that is the OEM manufacturer,
why should I not go for it? Or is this not the OEM manufacturer and the
internet lied to me once again!
Kyle
On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Kyle Arola <kylearola1...@gmail.com>
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Kyle Arola via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 13, 2017 at 11:44 AM
True, I do know the previous owner and have all the receipts! hahaha!
Kyle
On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
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