It's been my experience that if a bank ran the finish build out on the
property, they will have cut every possible corner to "contain costs",
which means they cheated at every possible point.

Just bought a property here that was a victim of the 2008 banking crash,
builder had started a development in a very exclusive neighborhood, 1.4
acre properties. Builder was suddenly left hanging with 3 houses
unfinished, because bank pulled financing during the "great bank crash of
2008".. it became "bank owned property".

Current property owner was upside down in the property. In talking with
them, discovered the heating and cooling bills were always astronomical.
Upon proper home inspection, discovered there was NO insulation in the
3,900 sq ft house. Bank had taken over property, and simply, "closed up the
walls at minimum expense.." Further, found serious faults in wiring,
plumbing and roofing, all which the bank "closed up" ... in order to sell
it to clear their books, taking unfair advantage of the unsuspecting new
owner.

Sad set of affairs, but I suspect it's one that was repeated in Kalebs
homes case, and something to add to your personal survival list. Ask when
the home was finished, and who owned it when it was.. if it was a bank..
run..



On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don't see any reason why you cannot repair it yourself. It is not all
> that complicated - just a bit of a mess that will take time. You need to
> open it up and remove and replace the damaged joists and floor sheathing.
> I would suggest you use pressure treated dimensional lumber for the
> replacement. If there is moisture getting in and you cannot determine the
> source, then it will last longer than untreated wood.
> It would however be a good idea to try to find the source of the leak if
> possible. You might just be right that the damage relates to the long
> period of time that the house sat while partly built.
> What is the siding on the outside? If it is vinyl siding, you should be
> able to remove it to have a look and put it back without damaging it. You
> might find the wall sheathing is damaged too. Or, you might not find any
> evidence of water intrusion from higher up. Only one way to tell.
>
> Is the ceiling in the room drywall? Do you see any evidence of water
> staining on the ceiling near the wall? You could get frost buildup in the
> attic that melts and runs down inside the wall.
> Do you get ice buildup on the eaves? That can cause water to back up under
> the shingles and again, run down inside the wall. Your cold season is much
> shorter than ours so some of this may not be as likely there as it is here.
> Here, that sort of thing mainly occurs in older housing. We have figured
> out how to avoid it for the most part.
>
> As to the ceramic tile issue, I suggest that you have to make it look good
> or you will have difficulty selling it. My realtor friend says "people buy
> lipstick". They want a house to look good. They want to haul in the TV and
> the couch and flop onto it. Most have no wish to do any work on the house.
> So, in order to sell and get a good price the house has to look nice.
> Buyers may overlook the fact that the roof is about to need new shingles
> but they will be unhappy if the interior does not look ready for them to
> move in. Clean, neutral colors and no obvious defects are best.
>
> Ceramic tile is messy and difficult in my opinion. It can be done and I
> have done it in small rooms like bathrooms and entryways, but it was hard
> work in my opinion and a bit stressful.
>
> If you don't think laminate flooring looks good enough, then look for
> alternatives. Prefinished hardwood is not hard to install. I am just
> finishing a bedroom with oak and it is the first time I have done it. Look
> for a deal on the hardwood. Rent a good flooring nailer and have at it.
>
> My 2 cents.
>
> RB
>
>
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