Hi Mitch!
That doesn't sound like a fun way to spend a weekend! BTW, what you
described is very much what I saw the mechanics doing in the videos -
they were using a foreign language I didn't recognize but it may have
been German. The sound was pretty poor.
They also used a shop made slide tool which had 2, 3' long legs that
bolted behind the hub - then a large sledge was used to whack away at
the other end (non-hub end) until it pulled loose.
The BMW guy also used a bearing collar behind the hub to press the hub
off using lug bolts to push thru the flange against the collar slowly
pulling the hub away from the carrier.
After watching the various videos I became more familiar with what I
might need do! :-)
I must admit though, I'm having 2nd thoughts... I get around pretty
good with my walker but my adult son is not mechanically inclined (at
all) and my wife has good intentions but lacks the weight needed to
loosen bolts, etc.
But if I can get close to things while in my chair, I should be able to
do the job. I have plenty of tools to help along the way - and a large
group of knowledgeable friends to tell me how to work around a problem.
wink, wink -
Thanks to all -
LarryT
On 07/21/2018 2:31 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
On July 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway
job? BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and
similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics
doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-)
There's an expensive tool (about $400 for the Chinese copy, I forget what the
real one costs) that makes the job easy-peasy. I saw a youtube video of the job
done the right way last winter.
I did a ML (W163) rear wheel bearing ($40 Timken bearing) without the tool.
Had to undo some ball joints to take the axle out.
Then used a BIG (10lb I believe) slide hammer bolted to the hub flange to yank
it out of the bearing. Took a lot of hammering to get it out after I put the
ball joints back together to hold the knuckle in place.
Then a big set of snap ring pliers to get the bearing retaining ring out.
Then I used the discs from a bearing/seal driving kit with a long bolt/nut to
push the old bearing out and drove the new bearing in with a combination of the
outer shell from the old bearing and the bolt/disc setup.
Not a job I look forward to doing again, but I did buy two of the bearings so I
have one on hand in case another one fails.
Mitch.
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